Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/884148
60 november/december 2017 keeping the hand low and close to the body. The key is to avoid pulling the strip up and away from the body on removal. If the strip is pulled up and away, it will cause hairs to break, and as we learned, broken hairs are more likely to turn into ingrown hairs. TREATING INGROWNS The most common solution we offer when it comes to treating ingrown hairs is to exfoliate, exfoliate, exfoliate! Although exfoliation is a large piece of the puzzle, it's not the only piece. It's important to exfoliate before waxing to remove dead skin cells, which will allow the hair to properly exit the follicle. Dead cells are our protective coating and serve a useful purpose; however, they can be a contributing factor in the creation of ingrown hair. The most common exfoliating ingredients used in the treatment of ingrown hairs are keratolytics and enzymes. A keratolytic is an ingredient that works to keep pores clean and loosen the bond of the dead cells from the live cells. The most common keratolytic ingredients for ingrown hairs are benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid, and glycolic acid. Enzymes are considered a gentler approach to exfoliation. They work by "eating away" the bond between the dead cells and live cells to reveal the soft and supple layers. Two of the most commonly used enzymes are pumpkin and papaya. The main goal when treating ingrown hair is to get the skin in the best condition possible. Ideally, we want the skin soft and supple. The softer and more supple the skin, the easier it is for the hair to "pop" out of the follicle instead of turning back in. Soft, supple skin is created with a combination of exfoliation and hydration. It's important to note that there is a difference between hydrating and moisturizing. Moisturizers, in general, don't add moisture to the skin; they simply seal in the current condition of the skin. Think of it this way: We've all had times when our hands are unbearably dry. We reach for the moisturizer and slather it on. Ahh … that feels so much better, right? Then, 10 minutes later, our hands feel dry again. Why? Because moisturizers add oil to the surface of the skin to create a seal. All we did was seal in the dryness. When treating ingrown hairs, the goal is to hydrate the skin. To hydrate means the ingredients will penetrate the top layers of the skin to hydrate it from within. My two favorite hydration ingredients are shea butter and jojoba oil. SETTING PROPER EXPECTATIONS Educating waxing clients about the risk of ingrown hairs is key to getting them on board with following your suggestions for home care. It's important that clients understand: 1. Those who suffer from ingrown hairs may always suffer to some degree, but with the proper product and home-care regimen, their discomfort can be greatly reduced. 2. Those new to Brazilians are going to feel "stubbly" after their waxing appointment for the first 3–5 sessions, until the skin's condition improves and allows the hairs to be removed more cleanly from the follicle. For clients who may have the occasional ingrown hair or are just in need of some hydration, introduce them to a hydrating product as a safeguard against potential ingrown hairs. This preventive maintenance will keep the skin soft and supple so your clients always get the best hair-removal result in the most comfortable way, and it will help keep ingrown hairs at bay. When skin is dry or dehydrated, it is the perfect atmosphere for ingrown hairs to flourish.