Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/834468
50 july/august 2017 WHAT HAPPENS IN AGING SKIN Young skin is supple and smooth, firmly draped over the underlying structures of the face. Aging or sun-damaged skin is different from youthful, healthy skin. The differences are appreciable in moisture content, in the appearance of fine and deep lines, and in the thinning of the epidermis. One of the most important and visible aspects of older skin is the color and texture difference, because desquamation becomes irregular. Skin is a composite tissue, consisting of a fibrous matrix containing elastin and collagen. Collagen provides strength to the skin structure, and elastin provides the snap or resiliency, allowing the skin to move about and assume conformational changes as required. When the elastin fibers undergo changes that cause them to lose their resiliency, the skin is no longer able to return to its original state. As a result, sagging and crinkling occur in a pattern that manifests as wrinkles. The skin is an excellent record keeper. Every moment we spend in the sun adds up like money in the bank. Ultraviolet rays generate free radicals that wreak havoc on cellular material. They are capable of altering DNA and may also affect membranes surrounding the skin cells—destroying or altering enzymes and proteins required for cellular metabolism and affecting amino acids. With age and increased accumulation of UV radiation, the dermal matrix becomes damaged and disorganized. The amount of collagen decreases, elasticity is compromised, and the skin becomes thin and less firm, allowing wrinkles to develop. When sunlight strikes the skin, some of the rays are reflected, some are scattered, and others are absorbed. Absorption of UV and visible light occurs due to melanin granules in the epidermal cells. Melanin is present to protect the skin from the damaging effects of sunlight. Exposure to sunlight, especially UVA and UVB radiation, stimulates the production of melanin, resulting in a pigmentation increase. Melanocyte hyperproliferation causes age spots. Melanin pigments are derivatives of the amino acid tyrosine. An increased production of melanin in the skin is called melanogenesis. This process is stimulated by DNA damage to the skin induced by UVB radiation. Tyrosinase is an enzyme that catalyzes the production of melanin and other pigments from tyrosine by oxidation. ADDRESSING THE VISIBLE SIGNS OF AGING Today, lessening the appearance of visible signs of aging is more than just reducing the appearance of wrinkles. We must look at the entire complexion, addressing the skin's tone, clarity, and color. For many One of the most important and visible aspects of older skin is the color and texture difference, because desquamation becomes irregular. decades, the approach to combating wrinkles was moisturizing. The belief was that by plumping up the dehydrated surface, superficial lines would decrease. Today, we have a host of beneficial ingredients and treatments that address many of the signs of visible aging as they manifest on the skin, starting in the 20s. Here, we will look at visible signs of skin aging that may become evident decade by decade, and how to address them. In Your 20s Up to 90 percent of the visible skin changes commonly attributed to aging are caused by the sun and can be seen as early as in one's 20s. On the other hand, oiliness and breakouts can still be a holdover from the hormonally charged teenage years. At the salon: Facials featuring deep- cleansing clay masks can help remove excess oils and debris. Look for treatments buffered with skin-softening seaweed and hydrating ingredients such as cocoa and organic coconut oils. At home: Combine weekly clay-based masks with a daily regimen of a seaweed- based product that provides hydrating, nourishing, and antioxidant properties. Seaweeds such as Laminaria digitata and Ascophyllum nodosum are natural sources of 12 vitamins, including B12, C, E, K, and beta carotene; 18 amino acids; and 42 trace elements. Essential fatty acids help maintain the skin moisture barrier, while alginic acid (a polysaccharide) helps lock moisture into the skin. In Your 30s Cell turnover slows down. The epidermal cells may suffer more from environmental damage, but the wrinkles still may not be visible. The dermis begins to lose some volume and bounce, collagen fibers aren't as efficiently meshed, and elastin coils are less tight.