ASCP Skin Deep

September/October 2012

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care should also include an antibacterial product, along with steps to reduce heat and soothe any visible redness. Removal of the softening agent on the skin will first be necessary. This can be followed with a pH-balanced toner to bring the skin back to its natural pH. Many product manufacturers have a specific post-extraction product with antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Some common ingredients include echinacea, green tea, niacinamide, oatmeal, tea tree oil, and witch hazel. Various devices can also be used after extractions, depending on preference and which machines are permitted in your state: • Iontophoresis, galvanic on the positive pole, is recommended if the negative pole was used prior to extractions. This has the additional benefits of reducing redness, contracting the pores, and allowing antibacterial and anti-inflammatory ingredients to penetrate deeper into the skin. • Some microcurrent devices can also be used to promote healing of inflammation in the skin; an ideal option for this part of the treatment. • Direct high frequency is popular for its antibacterial effects on the skin. By pro- ducing ozone, a type of oxygen, around the electrode, this treatment can inhibit anaerobic bacteria growth. • Blue LED light targets acne bacteria (Proprionibacterium acnes) by activating the porphyrins, which are byproducts of the bacterium's metabolism. Becker uses several options in her practice. "I use an antibacterial tonic on everyone first. On some clients, if the extractions were intense, I will give the skin a thorough cleanse and apply a sulphur-based mask. This has a great healing effect. I then proceed with pressure points to calm the skin and relax the client. Sometimes I choose LED therapy, depending on the needs of the skin." To cool the skin, glass globes, jade rollers, or marble stones are just a few of the available options that can be stored in the freezer or kept on ice prior to use, then smoothed along the skin. Applying a serum first allows for greater slip and glide, as well as offering additional benefits. Allantoin, calendula, and grapeseed extract are some examples of good, soothing ingredients. "Following extractions, I cleanse the skin again with a mild cleanser and apply a serum that calms the skin of all heat and inflammation. White tea, kola mate, and sea whip are a few of the ingredients," Padgett says. "I apply it with a very light application in the direction of lymphatic flow. Then I proceed with the rest of the treatment." Although your clients may not crave an extraction session as much as the rest of the facial, you have many options for making it effective, gentle, and safe. And when the result is clear skin glowing with health, that's something everybody can look forward to. Gaynor Farmer is a licensed esthetician with diplomas from the Confederation of International Beauty Therapy & Cosmetology, and City and Guilds. She provides advanced education to estheticians through her company, The Skin Coach. Formerly a spa owner, director, and postgraduate esthetics instructor, she lives in California and can be reached at info@skincoachonline.com. Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 25

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