ASCP Skin Deep

July/August 2012

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The Right Sunscreen Cut through the hype and learn what works by Jason Barbaria There are more than 2,000 over-the-counter sunscreen formulas on the market today. Which should you recommend to your clients? According to the American Cancer Society, more than 2 million people are diagnosed with skin cancer in the United States each year, so this question should be of particular interest to skin care professionals. While you might expect that the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is regulating sunscreen ingredients in terms of safety and effectiveness, unfortunately this is not yet the case. In 2011, the FDA published its latest rules for sunscreens, which include new requirements for labeling and for ultraviolet (UV) testing methods. These rules are scheduled to take effect on June 18, 2012. As this magazine goes to print at the end of May, we will wait to see whether those rules are delayed once again, as has occurred since the FDA first started working on sunscreen regulation in 1978. In the past, the FDA has not enforced any sunscreen regulations, relying instead on voluntary compliance from sunscreen manufacturers. Many simply ignore the regulations, continuing to advertise broad- spectrum protection on products that have not been properly tested, and using misleading terms like "waterproof" and "sweatproof." In addition, misleadingly high and unsubstantiated SPF claims encourage sunscreen users to spend more time in the sun without adequate protection. Higher SPF numbers do not significantly increase protection compared to lower numbers—SPF 20 provides 95 percent UV-B protection, while SPF 100 provides 99 percent. Regardless of labeling and regulations, how can you tell which sunscreens are the safest, most effective, and represent the best value for your money? In most cases, the answer comes down to the difference between the two types of filtering ingredients. Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 31

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