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Take into account the length of time the solution is on the skin. If Further Reading A. Paul Kelly and Susan C. Taylor, Dermatology for Skin of Color (McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009) Bernardita Policarpio, "Skin Lightening and Depigmenting Agents," Medscape Reference, January 2012, www.emedicine. medscape.com/article/1068091- overview Elle Morris, "Ethnic Skin Care: An Opportunity for Personal Connection," GCI Magazine, December 2010, www. gcimagazine.clom/business/ marketing/111395749.html Florence Barrett-Hill, Cosmetic Chemistry (Virtual Beauty Corporation, 2009) Gabriella Fabbrocini, "Chemical Peels," Medscape Reference, January 2012, www.emedicine. medscape.com/article/1829120- overview Rebat M. Halder, Dermatology and Dermatological Therapy of Pigmented Skin (Informa Healthcare, 2005) William Montagna, Guiseppe Prota, and John A. Kenny Jr, Black Skin Structure and Function (Academic Press, 1993) the manufacturer suggests it remain on the skin for up to fi ve minutes, a shorter time frame should be used for darker skin, e.g., 1 to 2 minutes. If this is tolerated, the time may be increased by one-minute increments on subsequent visits until the proposed fi ve minutes is reached. This will prevent excessive burning or crusting of the skin, or a worst-case scenario that the agent will penetrate below the basal layer and cause depigmentation or scarring. The following is a list of peeling agents recommended for darker skin tones. • Lactic acid is part of the alpha hydroxy family. Its large molecule allows for a slower penetration, resulting in less irritation to the skin. At a pH of 2.5 to 3, it is a phenomenal agent for dry, sensitive, darker skins and causes no peeling. Unlike more aggressive peels, it is super hydrating. • Mandelic acid is stable and not sensitive to light. The molecule is larger than that of glycolic acid, so penetration is slower. Studies show using this alpha hydroxy acid controls acne and abnormal pigmentation including melasma, as well as smoothes out rough, dry skin. • Pyruvic acid in lower concentrations, when combined with lactic acid, promotes reduction of melasma, dark spots and patches, as well as seborrhea. • Citric acid is a great alternative to glycolic acid. It can produce improvement in dyschromias, extended pores, fi ne lines, and melasma. Lower concentrations can be left on the skin without adverse reaction and can also be formulated for home use. • Salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy, is a derivative of aspirin also known as a salicylate. It helps decrease irritation and infl ammation, and is recommended for treating acne vulgaris. Salicylic acid has also been proven to have anti-infl ammatory and antimicrobial properties. Caution should be used with concentrations higher than 30 percent and a pH lower than 2.5. • Jessner's solution combines salicylic and lactic acid with resorcinol in an ethanol base. It has antimicrobial properties. Jessner's is considered one of the most effective agents for smoothing and addressing textural changes in darker skin. It also addresses acne and oily skin by decreasing oil production and unplugging sebaceous follicles. There is also a formula that replaces the resorcinol with glycolic or citric acid; this version is suggested for more sensitive or reactive skins. Post-Treatment Care Sun protection is an absolute necessity in any professional post- treatment protocol. In the weeks after the peel, enzymes are recommended to exfoliate the skin, along with a vitamin C mask to expedite healing, and a vitamin C cream. Once there is only light fl aking, reintroduce pretreatment home-care products, or add new ones as tolerated. Pamela Springer is a licensed esthetics educator, creator of the Global Skin Solutions corrective product line, and author of Natural Radiance—A Guide for Ethnic Skin Care (Global Skin Solutions Publishing, 2009). She is founder of The Skin & Makeup Institute of Arizona and the Academy of Advanced Aesthetics & Permanent Cosmetics. Visit www.pamelaspringer. com for more information. Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 17