Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/70637
NIACINAMIDE This is the active form of vitamin B3. When combined with retinyl palmitate and used over a four-week course of treatment, it improves skin lightening compared with using the ingredient alone. Niacinamide strengthens the skin's moisture barrier while improving tone and texture, a bonus for darker skins, which generally need moisture. PAPER MULBERRY Like hydroquinone, this is a tyrosinase inhibitor. It can cause a 50 percent reduction in tyrosinase activity when combined with kojic acid and hydroquinone. Choosing a Peel The selection of an appropriate peel within your scope of practice should take into account all the variables that may affect the amount of penetration, as well as your knowledge of the skin condition and the client's comfort level. These variables should begin with the client's Fitzpatrick skin type and the peeling agent's pH. Next, consider each of these questions: • If the chosen peel is a lower-pH product, was the client's skin primed long enough? • Has the client been compliant with professional treatments, home care, and the use of sunscreen in the pretreatment phase? • Has the client purchased post-peel home- care products? Does he or she understand how to use them, and why these products are necessary to achieve the desired outcome? • Do you have a signed consent form? (Consent forms for chemical peels and many other treatments can be found in the member area at www.ascpskincare.com.) • Has there been a change in medications, general health, cosmetic procedures, or lifestyle? • Has there been use of Retin-A in the last three weeks, or another chemical peel in the last week? • Is there a possible allergic reaction to the selected peeling agent? All peels require a patch test prior to use. VI. Black skin; rarely sun sensitive. Fitzpatrick Scale I. Very fair; blond or red hair; light-colored eyes; freckles common. II. Fair skinned; light eyes; light hair. III. Very common skin type; fair; eye and hair color vary. IV. Mediterranean Caucasian skin; medium to heavy pigmentation. V. Mideastern skin; rarely sun sensitive. Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 15