www.ascpskincare.com 33
Many estheticians who use and sell these products
report seeing benefits from them, but the question
of efficacy remains. It could simply be that a very
good product formulation with the correct delivery
system is improving the skin, but claiming that stem
cells are strengthened is impossible to prove.
PLANT VERSUS HUMAN STEM CELL INGREDIENTS
The most recognized stem cell ingredient used in skin care
products is the stem cell of the Swiss Uttwiler Spätlauber
apple.
3
The efficacy of this ingredient was studied in vitro
(cells in a petri dish), as well as in a small cohort of users. The
study's outcome showed there was an increase in the lifespan
of mesenchymal stem cells within a controlled environment,
and this ingredient has been widely used and promoted. The
beauty of these plant stem cell ingredients is the ability to
protect the skin, but the ability to directly affect stem cells
within a live human by topically applying these ingredients
has not been proven. Other plant stem cells that are used
in products include echinacea, edelweiss, lilac (Syringa
vulgaris), gotu kola (Centella asiatica), and grape (Solar vitus).
4
THE BOTTOM LINE
Harnessing the power of stem cells in a therapeutic
medical treatment has the potential to cure disease and
regrow organs. Studies are ongoing, and possibilities
for the regenerative effects of stem cells on skin are a
future possibility. As for the success of stem cells as
a primary topical antiaging ingredient in your retail
and treatment room services—well, the jury is still out.
Some estheticians have had great results, and others
feel it is not worth the expense. Use due diligence
when considering a product, and weigh the cost versus
benefit to your client. Remember, optimum results are
dependent on proper formulation and delivery.
Notes
1. Ferris Jabr, Scientific American, "In the Flesh: The
Embedded Dangers of Untested Stem Cell Cosmetics,"
(December 17, 2012), accessed March 2016, www.
scientificamerican.com/article/stem-cell-cosmetics.
2. Bryn Nelson, Nature Reports, "A Superficial Success,"
January 15, 2009, accessed March 2016, www.nature.com/
stemcells/2009/0901/090115/full/stemcells.2008.163.html.
3. M. Morus et al., "Plant Stem Cells as Innovation in Cosmetics,"
Acta Poloniae Pharmaceutica 71, no. 5 (Sep-Oct 2014): 701–7.
4. Pooja Kondhia, Cosmeticsdesign.com, "Fruit Stem Cell Cosmetic
and Personal Care Product Range," August 18, 2011, accessed
March 2016, www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Market-Trends/
Fruit-stem-cell-cosmetic-and-personal-care-product-range.
Resource
Cosmetics Business. "Stem Cell Technology—The Next Generation."
June 24, 2010. Accessed March 2016. www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/
technical/article_ page/Stem_cell_technology _The_next_
generation/55280.
