Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/526887
beyond the basics Mark Lees, PhD, MS, CIDESCO, is an award-winning speaker, clinical skin therapist, and product developer specializing in acne, and sensitive aging skin. He is the author of Skin Care: Beyond the Basics (Milady, 2011), The Skin Care Answer Book (Milady, 2010), and Clearing Concepts (Milady, 2013). Contact him at info@marklees.com or on Facebook at Mark Lees Skin Care. Q: What about pores that always look big, even after treatment or using an astringent? A: If there is scar tissue or sun damage present, pores may always look big, even after a facial or drying mask treatment. Scar tissue can cause follicles to be unresponsive to cosmetic treatment. Sun-damaged areas may have apparent pores that never seem to change, even with superficial peels. When the skin is sun damaged, it can lose collagen and elastin fibers, resulting in enlarged pores. These sun-damaged follicles are most likely found on the nose and inner cheeks. Q: What are the best treatments for controlling clogged pores? A: Controlling dead-cell accumulation inside the follicle is key to clearing clogged pores on a long-term basis. Even though salon extraction facials help remove visible clogged pores, they cannot stop the continual genetic cell buildup in the follicle. This is why clogged pores are a continual problem. Extraction also has no effect on microcomedones deep in the follicles. In the salon, mild salicylic peels help to loosen dead cells on the skin's surface, easing extraction. Desincrustation solutions are complexes of surfactants that help liquefy solidified sebum accumulations by breaking up the masses, helping make the extraction process more efficient. Salon treatments are important for removing existing impactions, but the real key to controlling and preventing clogged pores of all types is in daily home care. A daily application of mild alpha and beta hydroxy acid gels or serums breaks up cell accumulations, which loosens clogged pores. Continued daily use of the gel after the pores are cleared helps keep dead-cell buildup from reoccurring, which may prevent new clogged pores. All too often clients make the mistake of stopping the use of these gels when the skin appears clear. It is important to remind them that cell buildup is a continual problem, because it is genetic. ? ? ? ?