Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/493450
12 ASCP Skin Deep May/June 2015 Alopecia Alopecia is hair loss. The type that is a risk with lash extension services is traction alopecia—hair loss caused by pulling or weight being applied to the hair. Applying an extension that is too heavy for the natural lash, or not properly separating one lash from its neighbor, can make a lash shed before its time. The hair growth cycle is an important piece of knowledge for an eyelash technician (Image 3). Each eyelash, like all other hairs, goes through three natural stages of growth: anagen, catagen, and telogen. 1. Anagen is the active or growing stage. This stage lasts 2–3 weeks. 2. Catagen is the resting stage. When the lash stops growing, it transitions to this stage, and a new lash starts growing in the follicle underneath the catagen lash. 3. Telogen is the shedding stage. The upcoming new lash pushes the old one out of the follicle, causing it to shed. The whole cycle, from growing to shedding, lasts about 4–6 weeks. Each lash is in its own unique growing cycle. Your clients receive fills every 2–3 weeks to replace the lashes that have completed this cycle and subsequently shed. If you notice your client has lost more than half her extensions before the three-week mark, she may be experiencing traction alopecia. You will understand how traction alopecia works if you think about hair removal. If we tweeze or wax body hair regularly, the hair grows back sparser and finer. This is because we removed the hair before its natural time to shed. The follicle shrinks when there is no hair to support the walls of the follicle, and eventually it may stop producing hair altogether. The solution? Never apply a lash that is more than twice the width or length of the natural lash. This means most of your clients will stay in a lash diameter range of between 0.10 and 0.15 millimeters (mm). Only a handful of clients can regularly support a 0.20 mm lash, and it is highly recommended that no client wear an extension that is 0.25 mm or greater. Lash lengths should stay in the 6–12 mm range. Feel free to use three or more lengths per set to ensure each natural lash gets the appropriate length of extension. Make sure lashes are completely separated before your client leaves. There should only be one extension per lash. Give your client a disposable mascara wand and explain to her how to brush her lashes every day, after washing, to prevent tangling and sticking. Developing Allergies The risk of your client developing an allergy is an unpredictable and sometimes unpreventable factor. About 5 percent of the population—one in 20 clients— will develop an allergy to the adhesives used in lash extension services. This might happen after the initial application of extensions, or after repeated exposure. Explain this to each and every client before lash application, even if she is a repeat client. Symptoms of an allergic reaction to lash adhesives are most commonly red eyes and/or swollen, crusty, sore eyelids (Image 4). Emphasize to your client that if this happens, she should return immediately to have the extensions removed. Symptoms will normally subside on their own within 2–3 days; if not, advise your client to see her physician. Extension adhesives are made from a type of cyanoacrylate. Its fumes can irritate sensitive membranes in the eyes, nose, and throat; minimize the risk by lashing in a well-ventilated area. Always perform a patch test on your clients 24 hours prior to their initial appointment by placing two to three lashes per eye. Patch testing each client shows you care about her health and safety! Things to Check The client consultation process is your chance to discover if your client has any contraindications to lash extensions. Forms you can use during your consultation can be downloaded from www.ascpskincare.com (log in to the Member section, and look in the Business Tools menu for "Client Treatment Forms"). Here are a few topics to check: ALLERGIES Ask if the client has ever had an allergic reaction to acrylic or latex. If she is allergic to latex, use latex- free adhesive and non-latex gloves. If she is allergic to acrylics, do not apply extensions. Ask about seasonal allergies, too. If she often gets red, itchy eyes from seasonal allergies, she may have an increased risk for adhesive allergies—always patch test. Image 3. The hair growth cycle is an important piece of knowledge for an eyelash technician. Image 4. A variety of allergies can cause a client's eyelids to flare.