Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/430862
Create your free business website! www.ascpskincare.com 9 beyond the basics Q. What should estheticians look for in a moisturizer? A good moisturizing product should include both humectants and protectants. Humectants work like magnets for water. They will attract and hold water on, and in, the skin. Well-known humectants include glycerin, sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid), and sodium PCA. Protectants are emollients (skin softeners) that work by creating an additional barrier on the skin's surface, helping to hold water in the skin. They can vary in weight and include ingredients from many sources—from mineral oil and petrolatum to plant extracts such as shea butter and sunflower oil. Silicone derivatives like dimethicone are lightweight alternatives to the heavier oils and waxes, and are good choices for clog-prone and acne-prone skin. Different blends of humectant and emollient ingredients create different product consistencies—cream, lotion, or fluid. Products can be developed for very specific skin problems, such as skin that is both dehydrated and sensitive, or skin that is alipidic (deficient in protective sebum production) and therefore needs more emollient. One of the most important ingredients to use in treating dehydrated skin is ceramide, especially for dry body skin and dry mature facial skin. These lipid complexes are designed to replace intercellular lipids that may be missing or inadequate in the skin's natural epidermal barrier function. Lastly, use of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) can be extremely beneficial. Glycolic and lactic acids are both exfoliants and humectants. Gently removing the dry, dead cells on the skin surface accelerates cell turnover, and it is during cell renewal that natural barrier lipids are produced. Using AHAs will remove dead cells, increase moisture, increase cell renewal, and increase natural barrier lipids, resulting in healthier skin. Look for 8–10 percent AHA content for the face, and up to 15 percent for the body. The pH of AHA products should be around 3.5, as stronger daily- use products with pHs lower than 3.5 can irritate. The esthetician plays an important role in evaluating the client's skin carefully to determine the level of dehydration and skin type. This information is essential in determining the right product with the correct blend of humectant and protective ingredients. Mark Lees, PhD, MS, CIDESCO, is an award- winning speaker, clinical skin therapist, and product developer, specializing in acne, sensitive, and aging skin. He is the author of Skin Care: Beyond the Basics (Milady, 2011), The Skin Care Answer Book (Milady, 2010), and Clearing Concepts (Milady, 2013). Contact him at info@marklees.com or on Facebook at Mark Lees Skin Care. Don't bathe more than once a day, unless extremely necessary. Stick to lukewarm water. Hot water strips lipids and inflames already-irritated skin. Apply moisturizer immediately after a bath or shower, while the skin is still damp. This helps trap moisture in the skin's surface. Wear protective clothing, including facial protection such as a scarf or ski mask, if you are outdoors in very cold weather. 4 5 6 7 Apply moisturizer immediately after a bath or shower.