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Create your free business website! www.ascpskincare.com 35 Peptides as Alternatives One of the greatest benefi ts of peptides is their ability to provide results without irritation. Benzoyl peroxide, hydroquinone, and retinol—to name just three—are the gold standards in skin care for their respective purposes, but they also have a high potential for irritation. Clients are searching for ways to either enhance these treatments or avoid them altogether. Peptides offer the best of both worlds, as they are compatible with nearly every treatment available and their powerful results offer refuge for those who cannot tolerate more aggressive ingredients. NEUROPEPTIDES (ALTERNATIVE TO BOTOX) Neuropeptides, often referred to as Botox-like peptides, are able to relax the muscle contractions that cause fi ne lines and wrinkles, helping to reduce their appearance. The simple science behind this is that muscle contraction occurs when a chemical called acetylcholine is released in our skin and reaches its intended receptor site. Over time, repeated muscle contraction forms a wrinkle. Neuropeptides interrupt this process in several different ways. Some inhibit acetylcholine: the less that is created, the less there is to reach the receptors. Others focus on the receptor sites, either physically blocking the receptor so the acetylcholine cannot enter, or interrupting the steps needed for the receptor to start receiving acetylcholine. Some studies suggest the results of Botox treatment may last longer when neuropeptides are also used. Additionally, clients who do not wish to use Botox can benefi t from the results provided by neuropeptides alone. Atoxelene is one example of a neuropeptide. COLLAGEN BOOSTERS (ALTERNATIVE TO RETINOL) In a 2004 study, the skin of subjects using retinol was compared with the skin of those using palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 (Matrixyl), a collagen-boosting peptide. After two months, the skin of the retinol users was 4 percent thicker than when they started, and the skin of the peptide users was 6.5 percent thicker. Not only did the peptide outperform retinol in this case, it did so without irritation. 1 Since this study, countless other peptides have been developed for use in skin care. For example, palmitoyl tripeptide-5 has been shown to be 60 percent more effective than palmitoyl pentapeptide-3. Collagen-boosting peptides can be recommended for clients who cannot tolerate retinol, as well as for clients who respond well to retinol and are looking for the next step in their antiaging regimen. ENZYME INHIBITORS (ALTERNATIVE TO HYDROQUINONE) ß-White or Beta-White (the trade name for oligopeptide-68) is a peptide that inhibits tyrosinase—the enzyme associated with hyperpigmentation. By reducing tyrosinase, the appearance of hyperpigmentation can be diminished, whether the hyperpigmentation was caused by sun exposure or hormonal changes. While hydroquinone is outstanding for skin brightening, it is irritating and there is controversy over its safety. ß-White can be used either in addition to hydroquinone, during the necessary breaks from hydroquinone treatment, or as a safe, effective alternative. One of the greatest benefi ts of peptides is their ability to provide results without the irritation. Benzoyl peroxide chemical structure