ASCP Skin Deep

September | October 2014

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Create your free business website! www.ascpskincare.com 21 • Photosensitizing chemicals. • Essential oils. • Dyes and color additives. • Vitamin C. A recent case study showed that complications occurred when a lipophilic vitamin C serum was used with microneedling. 1 It may be wise to avoid this ingredient until more is understood. • Emollients that use petrochemical by-products. Beyond using the correct ingredients, it's important to understand the skin's barrier functions—not just the permeability barrier of the stratum corneum, but all the biochemical reactions that happen within the skin. Finally, you must know your client's sun exposure habits and have a deep understanding of how ultraviolet (UV) rays affect the skin's physiology. It is very important that your client practices daily sun protection after getting a microneedling treatment. Doing a complete client intake, including lifestyle information, is essential to deciding if you should use microneedling; in addition to UV exposure, factors such as active medical conditions and home care products will affect the outcome. Train, and Train Again This discussion is an overview of microneedling and shouldn't be regarded as a substitute for advanced training. A best practice with this modality is to take at least two separate training courses: the training offered by your device manufacturer, and also some nonproduct-specific training from another provider. It's crucial to understand the risks of microneedling, to make sure you are in compliance with applicable laws in your area, and to scrupulously follow correct protocol for safe and hygienic use. Susanne Schmaling, director of education for Associated Skin Care Professionals, is a licensed esthetician, experienced educator, former spa owner, founder of the Pacific Institute of Esthetics, and author of A Comprehensive Guide to Equipment (Milady, 2009) and Aging Skin (Milady, 2011). Contact her at sschmaling@ascpskincare.com. NOTE 1. R. Soltani-Arabshahi et al., "Facial Allergic Granulomatous Reaction and Systemic Hypersensitivity Associated with Microneedle Therapy for Skin Rejuvenation," JAMA Dermatology 150, no. 1 (January 2014): 68–72.

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