ASCP Skin Deep

January | February 2014

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the past with acrylic nails may also have a reaction to the adhesives used for lash extensions. Good judgment must always be used when consulting with a potential lash-extension client. Unfortunately, we can't always provide what a client wants, so it's important to make honest recommendations based on the reality of each individual's situation. Accept that you will occasionally have to say "no" to a client and educate her about why extensions may not be the right choice. The Right Esthetician While state board regulations can enforce hygiene and training standards in our profession, we all know regulations alone do not create skill. Anyone who has fallen victim to a bad haircut can attest to that. When properly applied, lash extensions will appear completely natural (unless, of course, a deliberately avant-garde look is wanted—but this will not be the case for most estheticians' clients). They should be indistinguishable from natural eyelashes, even under a magnification lamp. Lashes should not be stuck together. Each individual lash extension will be applied to a single eyelash. Done right, they will follow the natural curve and direction of the eyelashes, with no crisscrossing, and will not point in many different directions. The sign of perfect lash extensions is when the client gets complimented on having beautiful eyes or beautiful lashes, not complimented on her extensions or questioned about whether her lashes are real. Achieving all this is very time-consuming and the technician must be willing to spend that time with every client. When new clients make a phone appointment with me for a refill on extensions that were applied by someone else, I warn them that I can't guarantee it will be possible until I have seen their extensions, and that there's a chance a new full set may be needed. I have seen and worked on lash extensions applied by very skilled and very unskilled technicians. Doing a refill for a client who has beautifullyapplied extensions is a joy! Trying to do a refill for a client whose extensions are clumped together, uneven, or done with inferior products is really impossible. The Must-Dos First, there are some purely physical aspects to consider. Providing lash-extension services requires ambidextrous use of both hands while working with sharp instruments and potentially hazardous adhesives around a client's eyes, while concentrating on very small areas for very lengthy sessions. Not all estheticians can do this comfortably and safely. Second, be aware that many people, through no fault of their own, do not have the artistic flair to produce an attractive or natural look when applying lash extensions. This is true in all areas of the beauty industry. Even with the same training and the same amount of practice, some professionals are simply more gifted than others in a particular service or modality. Recognizing your own strengths and weaknesses is essential to building a successful career. 14 ASCP Skin Deep January/February 2014 The following list isn't intended to be comprehensive, but it includes a few of the most important elements to master and keep in mind. • Always do a proper evaluation prior to applying extensions. You must be comfortable educating clients who sometimes have unrealistic expectations. Just as in other areas of esthetics, a skilled lash technician must know the realistic, safe limits of what is possible, no matter what the client requests. • Always do a test with just a few lashes before putting a full set on a new client, especially before an important event such as a wedding or prom. Clients may have allergies or sensitivities they don't know about.

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