ASCP Skin Deep

WINTER 2025

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88 ASCP Skin Deep Winter 2025 NO MATTER WHERE WE TURN these days, collagen appears to be everywhere. Fitness influencers swear by putting it in their smoothies, and skin care brands are keen on incorporating it in a variety of products. It's no wonder some people are taking this trend a step further with collagen banking. Collagen banking is the act of building up and saving the skin's collagen to prevent skin aging as time goes on. The idea is that the more you stimulate collagen now, the more the skin will have later. On social media, the trend has mostly targeted audiences in their 20s and 30s, claiming that the earlier people start, the more effective their collagen banking will be. To understand the buzz around collagen banking, we asked Brian Goodwin, esthetician and international trainer at Éminence Organic Skin Care, to share his expertise. THE GOOD Plump, smooth skin is the goal for many clients, so focusing on collagen could help them achieve that goal. "Through banking and preserving the collagen BEHIND THE TREND Collagen Banking Investigating the good and bad of this viral fad in your skin over time, you preserve the high-quality collagen longer and, thus, keep the skin looking smoother and more resilient to signs of aging," Goodwin says. A positive aspect of this trend is that your clients can collagen bank through professional treatments and at-home routines. In the treatment room, you might suggest one of the following: • Lights and lasers, such as broadband light, fractional lasers, and nonfractional lasers • Microneedling with radio frequency, such as Morpheus8 and Vivace • Stand-alone radio frequency and ultrasound THE BAD For the most part, preserving the skin's collagen is a good thing! But there is something to be said about creating unrealistic expectations of results. According to Goodwin, "Up to 90 percent of aging in the skin is caused by extrinsic factors, such as sun and pollution exposure and lifestyle or dietary habits." Goodwin explains that by focusing only on collagen without actively protecting against those aggressors, the effects of collagen banking could be minimal. Another aspect of collagen banking to consider is that the trend often focuses on younger clients who already have plentiful collagen present in their skin. "For more mature clients, professional skin care treatments need to be more aggressive and reach deeper to stimulate and bank collagen in the layers of the skin that matter," Goodwin says. THE CONCLUSION For clients seeking soft, bouncy, smooth skin, collagen banking might help them achieve results. You can help them build routines—in the treatment room and at home—that guide them on their journey. Remind them that collagen isn't the only factor to consider in skin aging. "The other most critical categories of home care for collagen banking are SPF, pollution protection, and blue light protection, as these function as a sort of warranty or shield to protect the collagen from environmental factors," Goodwin says. Some key ingredients in this additional protection include peptides from cocoa seed extract to protect from blue light damage and microgreens with phytochemicals to protect from pollution. GETTY IMAGES

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