ASCP SkinPro got a glow-up! Check out new app content at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 89
Peptides
Amino acids are the smallest building blocks
of protein. When several amino acids link, they
form a peptide. For example, fi ve of them make
up a pentapeptide. When many amino acids link
together, proteins are formed. Because the choice
and sequencing of the amino acids are so varied, so
are the resulting proteins. Today, the technology of
pentapeptides creates fi rmness in the skin without the
irritation commonly associated with retinoids.
• Messenger pentapeptides are known to
help in the appearance of deep wrinkles.
These have been found to have better results
than retinol without the irritation.
• Biopeptides, found in Ulva lactuca seaweed,
are rich in praline, glycine, and lysine,
which aid in slowing the degradation of
elastin that occurs with skin aging.
• Palmitoyl oligopeptides help skin appear smoother
and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.
LIFELONG SKIN CARE
As an esthetician, it is important to engage your
clients with skin care programs that work throughout
their lives. It is never too late for them to start a routine,
in the treatment room and at home, for aging skin. Work
with your client at the spa by educating them on proper
ingredients and treatments for the skin, and recommend
proper at-home care that can help lessen the eff ects of
menopause on their skin between appointments.
Notes
1. Grand View Research, "Menopause Market To Reach $24.4Bn
By 2030—CAGR: 5.37%," November 2023, grandviewresearch.
com/press-release/global-menopause-market.
2. Society for Women's Health Research, "Menopause," accessed
January 2024, swhr.org/health _focus_ area/menopause.
3. Grand View Research, "Menopause Market To Reach
$24.4Bn By 2030—CAGR: 5.37%."
4. AARP, "Boomer and Gen-X Women Feel Ignored by Beauty and
Grooming Product Makers, AARP Survey Finds," October 16, 2019, press.
aarp.org/2019-10-15-Boomer-and-Gen-X-Women-Feel-Ignored-by-
Beauty-and-Grooming-Product-Makers-AARP-Survey-Finds.
5. Edwin D. Lephart and Frederick Naftolin, "Menopause and the Skin:
Old Favorites and New Innovations in Cosmeceuticals for Estrogen-
Defi cient Skin," Dermatology and Therapy 11, no. 1 (Februrary
2011): 53–69, ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7859014.
6. Pietro Affi nito et al., "Eff ects of Postmenopausal
Hypoestrogenism on Skin Collagen," Maturitas 33,
no. 3 (December 1999): P239–47, maturitas.org/
article/S0378-5122(99)00077-8/abstract.
7. Rosacea.org, "Women May Need Added Therapy,"
Rosacea Review, Winter 2008, rosacea.org/rosacea-
review/2008/winter/women-may-need-added-therapy.
8. Nagaraj P. Vijay Sankar et al., "Chapter 28—Elucidation of
the Antioxidant Potential of Marine Macroalgal Biomolecules
for Healthcare Applications: Current Status and Future
Prospects," Marine Antioxidants (2023): 365–77, sciencedirect.
com/science/article/abs/pii/B9780323950862000278.
9. Donald L. Bissett, John E. Oblong, and Cynthia A. Berge,
"Niacinamide: A B Vitamin that Improves Aging Facial Skin
Appearance," Dermatologic Surgery 31, no. 7 (July 2005):
860–5, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16029679; Donald L. Bissett
et al., "Topical Niacinamide Reduces Yellowing, Wrinkling,
Red Blotchiness, and Hyperpigmented Spots in Aging Facial
Skin," International Journal of Cosmetic Science 26 no. 5
(October 2004): 231–8, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18492135.
10. Eleni Papakonstantinou, Michael Roth, and George
Karakiulakis, "Hyaluronic Acid: A Key Molecule in Skin
Aging," Dermato Endocrinology 4, no. 3 (July 2012):
253–8, ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583886.
11. Chios Mastiha Growers Association, "Chios Mastiha:
Mastiha Guide to Beauty Care," accessed January
2024, gummastic.gr/public/Leafl ets/CHIOS _
MASTIHA _GUIDE_TO_ BEAUTY_CARE.pdf.
12. Alfeu Accorsi-Neto et al., "Eff ects of Isofl avones on the Skin of
Postmenopausal Women: A Pilot Study," Clinics 64, no. 6 (June
2009): 505–10, ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC2705153.
