Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1503366
72 ASCP Skin Deep Summer 2023 Under US law, cosmetic products and ingredients don't need approval from the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) before they go on the market. This means brands have a legal responsibility to ensure the safety of their products. There are two laws pertaining to the FDA's involvement with cosmetic manufacturing: the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA). The FDA can take action against cosmetics on the market that violate these laws, as well as the brands that produce them. The FDA can also inspect cosmetic labs to ensure cosmetic products are produced safely and determine whether the products are adulterated or misbranded under the FD&C Act or FPLA—this is why it's vital for skin care brands to follow safe and structured procedures when creating their products. To get all the nuances and to better understand the manufacturing process, I spoke with Giuliano Cortopassi, founder and chief formulator of Dermasystems Cosmetics Lab. Cortopassi gave me a visual tour of his manufacturing facility and walked me through the vital processes required to make a product from start to finish. The lab's team of highly experienced formulators, chemists, and packaging engineers handle all aspects of product development. STEP 1: RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT Since innovation is the essence of the cosmetic industry, all new products begin with research and development (R&D). After the initial brainstorming, the skin care brand commits to R&D, where the manufacturing facility works with the brand to envision what the goal is for the ideal effect of the product, as well as its desired texture, consistency, fragrance, and key ingredients. At this stage, the brand can also submit the list of "blacklisted" ingredients to avoid—this is often done for beauty brands that prioritize what they consider to be clean ingredients. This is also the time when they can give product examples of any benchmarks and suggestions they may have to improve existing products. During the R&D process, packaging and labeling options are also discussed. There are infinite varieties of cosmetic containers that are ever-evolving—jars, airless containers, tubes, bottles, ampules, and pouches—and every product is unique. Many brands aim at sustainability, and a turnkey laboratory can There are infinite varieties of cosmetic containers that are ever- evolving—jars, airless containers, tubes, bottles, ampules, and pouches—and every product is unique.