ASCP Skin Deep


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96 ASCP Skin Deep Summer 2023 BEHIND THE TREND Face Taping Investigating the good, the bad, and the science of this viral fad TAPE IS A MULTIPURPOSE WONDER. It can be used to create crisp lines when painting walls, in arts and crafts in place of messy glue, and in a pinch, as a great substitute for picking lint o clothing. Recently on social media, however, there's a new, more controversial use for tape: as an alternative antiaging method for smoothing wrinkles and ne lines. Is tape really the answer, though? We checked out the research and consulted Brian Goodwin, esthetician and international trainer at Éminence Organic Skin Care. Here's what you should know. THE GOOD Goodwin says the idea is that regular application of tape over areas of wrinkles and ne lines could help reduce existing lines or prevent facial scrunching during sleep. "Taping could also be used to pull lax skin back in areas such as the eyes, cheeks, jaw, chin, and neck to give the skin a tighter appearance for special events or photo shoots," Goodwin adds. This method uses special tape with strings that are applied in strategic areas of the face and then attached at the back of the head, tightening the facial skin and pulling it back to smooth out wrinkles. THE BAD There are some downsides to consider, including "irritation or allergic reactions caused by the adhesive on the tape coming into contact with the skin," Goodwin says. "Additionally, the action of pulling the tape o the skin when removing it could cause unwanted redness. The covering of the skin with tape could also cause congestion by blocking pores, or cause breakouts due to creating a warm, moisture-rich environment in which bacteria could thrive." This is why it's important for face taping to be done with the correct type of tape. Rather than generic, clear adhesive tape found in the junk drawer, face taping should be performed with tape designed speci cally for prolonged facial application. THE SCIENCE There aren't many studies looking into the e ects of face taping, so there's no way to guarantee it will provide long-term, antiaging results. It's important to note that most taping only provides temporary results—the aforementioned tape with strings method provides smoothing only until the tape is removed. THE CONCLUSION "Face taping is trending on social media, particularly on TikTok, so our clients are bound to see this viral trend and want to try it out," Goodwin says. "As estheticians and spa professionals, we should guide our clients to select a tape that is designed for face taping." Better yet, you can guide clients toward topical ingredients with antiaging bene ts. One such ingredient is a Botox-like peptide from the okra seed. "This is a neuropeptide, which inhibits contractions and folding of the skin (much like Botox) without the need for needles and injections," Goodwin explains. Another common ingredient is stevia extract. "It contains a chemical called stevioside, which can enhance the breakdown of excess acetylcholine (caused by frequent stress), leading to a reduction of involuntary contractions of the skin, eventually diminishing stress lines."

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