ASCP Skin Deep

SUMMER 2023

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Exclusive member benefit: Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 45 chemical exfoliation can dry the skin and encourage skin aging, whereas just enough exfoliation can fortify healthy, functioning skin. COPPER Copper is a trace mineral that is essential for producing collagen, elastin, and keratin, which are all important components of the skin. Copper plays a key role in the synthesis and stabilization of skin proteins, promoting the proliferation and survival of epidermal basal stem cells. Copper can fight against and kill gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, many forms of resistant bacteria, fungi, and viruses. 6 Though effective products formulated with copper and copper peptides have a positive influence on the skin, the recommended daily intake of copper is mostly obtained through food and water consumption. MAGNESIUM Magnesium is an essential mineral required for more than 300 enzymatic reactions in the body. It plays a critical role in maintaining healthy skin by regulating cell turnover and helps promote the synthesis of collagen and elastin required for DNA and RNA synthesis, reproduction, and protein synthesis. Magnesium also has anti- inflammatory properties that can help reduce redness and irritation in the skin. 7 In professional skin care formulations, magnesium is often delivered as a compound ingredient (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, for example) and is not intended as endogenous supplementation. COLLOIDAL SILVER Colloidal silver is a suspension of tiny silver particles in an aqueous medium— this disbursement provides a monatomic ionic state that allows silver to be biologically active. Colloidal silver was first used in 1891 by a surgeon named B.C. Cred to sterilize wounds. It gained popularity from 1900 to 1940, but its use was replaced by the rise of antibiotics. There are many ways colloidal silver works in skin care product formulations: as an effective ingredient to strengthen immune function, as an antimicrobial preservative agent, as a way to fight against acne breakouts, to counter the effects of eczema and psoriasis, and as an efficacious ingredient to encourage wound healing. 8 GOLD Gold is a precious metal that has been used in skin care for thousands of years. It is believed to have anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce redness and skin inflammation. Gold is also thought to stimulate cell growth and improve the elasticity of the skin. Though there are limited studies on its histological effects, anecdotal evidence suggests the right size and shape of the gold infused in formulations lends to its efficacy and safety of use. Often, gold is incorporated in nanomaterials— nanospheres (NSs) or nanorods (NRs)— with different aspect ratios for specific product embedment. 9 MINERALS FOR OPTIMAL SKIN HEALTH Minerals are an important part of healthy skin. Skin care products that incorporate minerals support the skin's barrier function, immune function, healthy melanogenesis, and even dermal thickness. Topically applied INGREDIENT DECK Skin care products that incorporate minerals support the skin's barrier function, immune function, healthy melanogenesis, and even dermal thickness. minerals are just one way of obtaining daily requirements; the effectiveness of mineral delivery can vary depending on the mineral, the form it is in, and the concentration used. While you should encourage your clients to explore the application of products with these ingredients, the easiest and most important way to receive these minerals for skin health (and full body health) continues to be eating a colorful, balanced diet, drinking plenty of water, and getting enough sleep. Notes 1. M. Haftek, R. Abdayem, and P. Guyonnet-Debersac, "Skin Minerals: Key Roles of Inorganic Elements in Skin Physiological Functions," International Journal of Molecular Sciences 23, no. 11 (June 2022), ncbi. nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC9181837. 2. USGS, "What Is the Difference Between a Rock and a Mineral?," accessed June 2023, usgs.gov/faqs/ what-difference-between-rock-and-mineral. 3. Medline Plus, "Definitions of Health Terms: Minerals," last modified March 2, 2022, medlineplus. gov/definitions/mineralsdefinitions.html. 4. Se Kyoo Jeong et al., "Stimulation of Epidermal Calcium Gradient Loss and Increase in TNF-alpha and IL–1alpha Expressions by Glycolic Acid in Murine Epidermis," Experimental Dermatology 14, no. 8 (August 2005): 571–9, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16026578/. 5. S. E. Lee and S. H. Lee, "Skin Barrier and Calcium," Annals of Dermatology 30, no. 3 (June 2018), doi.org/10.5021/ad.2018.30.3.265. 6. Gadi Borkow, "Using Copper to Improve the Well- Being of the Skin," Current Chemical Biology 8, no. 2 (2014): 89–102, eurekaselect.com/article/65514. 7. U. Gröber et al., "Myth or Reality—Transdermal Magnesium?," Nutrients 9, no. 8 (August 2017): 813, ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5579607/; S. Mohammad-Kazem Nourbakhsh et al., "Effect of Topical Application of the Cream Containing Magnesium 2% on Treatment of Diaper Dermatitis and Diaper Rash in Children A Clinical Trial Study," Journal of Clinical and Diagnostic Research 10, no. 1 (January 2016), ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4740689/. 8. W. Sim et al., "Antimicrobial Silver in Medicinal and Consumer Applications: A Patent Review of the Past Decade (2007–2017)," Antibiotics 7, no. 4 (October 2018): 93, mdpi.com/2079-6382/7/4/93. 9. C. Liu et al., "Dermal Toxicity Influence of Gold Nanomaterials After Embedment in Cosmetics," Toxics 10, no. 6 (June 2022): 276, ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/ pmc/articles/PMC9228324/; Haftek, Abdayem, and Guyonnet-Debersac, "Skin Minerals: Key Roles of Inorganic Elements in Skin Physiological Functions."

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