Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1495571
New member benefit! Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 37 fatty acids that humans must ingest because the body requires them for good health, but we cannot synthesize them on our own. Our cells then work their way up through the layers of the epidermis to shed off in 15–45 days (based on our age). At the stratum granulosum layer (just below the stratum corneum and stratum lucidum), the cells release their contents and flatten out to become the dry, dead skin cells that shed off at the skin's surface. This process is especially important because the contents of the cells create the skin's oil and water bilayers. The bilayer level helps prevent transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by holding water in the skin. Humans also need those essential fatty acids to make up the oil component at this layer. If our diet does not give us the water and EFAs needed to create healthy cells, and eventually the bilayers, the result presents itself as milia. Image 1 shows unhealthy cells that are not properly aligned and that allow water to evaporate. This also allows foreign invaders to penetrate the skin, leading to sensitivity and redness. After reviewing this image, imagine the thin skin around your eyes that allows TEWL to happen—that's why we tend to see milia around the eyes (although they can happen all over the face). Image 2 shows a diagram of the oil and water bilayers. If someone is missing the water component in the bilayers, the oil will begin to crystalize into small balls under the skin. If we simply add hyaluronic acid, the water continues to evaporate from the skin. Instead, we need ceramides to emulsify the oil and water and hold them together to create this proper balance. Now that we understand that the root cause of milia is a lack of free water in the skin, we understand we need hyaluronic acid and ceramides to create the balance. So, it also makes sense why we can't scrub off milia. It's impossible to exfoliate our bilayer system. Other topical reasons for milia include: (1) heavy eye products that contain too much oil and not enough water and (2) skin that's overly dry due to astringents and no proper hydration after use. The key to preventing milia is to get enough essential fatty acids and water in our diet and to use gentle exfoliation followed by immediate hydration with a balance of hyaluronic acid and ceramides. Allow two months (or two full cell life cycles) to reset the bilayers. While some milia are permanent, some milia will dissolve and shed off through the natural life cycle of the skin. Getting to the root cause of milia helps you understand that the answer is water and EFAs. Topically, it's best to use a balance of hyaluronic acid and ceramides. But it's also best to encourage clients to drink plenty of water and eat their EFAs! A Word of Caution Make sure your clients aren't trying to hack away at their milia at home. Not only is this something that likely won't work, but there's also a risk they could unintentionally cause scabbing, scarring, or infection. And milia near the eyes could be particularly dangerous. If they experience an infection, refer them to a physician or dermatologist. SKIN PHYSIOLOGY Milium Pore Oil Dermis Epidermis Water Transepidermal Water Loss HEALTHY SKIN Ceramides Ceramides Cuticle Stratum corneum Corneocyte Dead skin cells DRY SKIN Image 1 Image 2