ASCP Skin Deep


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96 ASCP Skin Deep Spring 2023 BEHIND THE TREND Ice Water Facials Investigating the good, the bad, and the science of this viral fad DUNKING YOUR FACE IN A BOWL of ice-cold water might not sound like your favorite way to wake up, but some people claim it's a skin-saver. Is this trend more of a freezing frenzy than a legitimate step in your clients' routines? We looked into the research and asked Brian Goodwin, esthetician and international trainer at Éminence Organic Skin Care, for his take. THE GOOD According to Goodwin, "The proposed bene ts of ice water facials include increased vitality in the skin, detoxi cation, reduced pu ness, and, in theory, reduced in ammation." The idea is that the super-cold water can help people with increased pu ness and dull skin, especially those who don't have sensitive skin. THE BAD As you know, some cold treatments are great for clients' skin. This speci c trend, however, might be too extreme. "Too cold of temperatures applied to the skin too frequently can actually have the opposite of the intended e ect," Goodwin says. The risk here is with causing reactivity and irritation, especially for people who have already sensitive skin or rosacea. Another downside to consider: the water waste. Due to "the increased water usage . . . and the increased electricity required to create all those ice cubes, repeatedly, it seems at least worth pondering if home-performed ice facials are a green-conscious practice," Goodwin says. THE SCIENCE Ice is known to have anti-in ammatory properties when applied to the skin. 1 In a facial treatment, the cold of the ice causes facial capillaries to constrict. Then, the cold increases blood circulation, bringing new oxygen and nutrients to the skin. THE CONCLUSION If your clients are curious about cold plunges, you can discuss ways they can do so safely. Goodwin recommends cool rollers, ice globes, or ice wands that clients can keep in their freezers. "This allows much more control of the application of cool temperatures, while also only applying the cool temperatures to zones of the face versus plunging the entire face into ice water. These options are reusable, stay cold longer, are mess- free, and are unlikely to cause any unintended reactions," he says. In-o ce treatments that use ingredients like mint, eucalyptus, and tea tree can mimic this cooling e ect as well. Note 1. Daniel P. Singh et al., "E ects of Topical Icing on Infl ammation, Angiogenesis, Revascularization, and Myofi ber Regeneration in Skeletal Muscle Following Contusion Injury," Frontiers in Physiology 8 (March 2017), /

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