Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1489006
68 ASCP Skin Deep Winter 2023 retinoid night." Bowe also recommends choosing an exfoliant with a blend of acids rather than one highly concentrated acid, since they perform better, and she suggests staying away from formulas with olive oil or essential oils. "You don't want to use a product that is too heavy or greasy, because that can push the exfoliating acid into the skin and create unnecessary irritation." Instead, she suggests applying "a fragrance-free moisturizer that specifi cally rebalances the skin microbiome and repairs the skin barrier." Bowe also suggests clients practice skin cycling at night, because doing so will help them avoid skin irritation. • Night 1: Apply an exfoliating serum onto clean skin as a prep for the actives ahead. Bowe recommends Dr. Whitney Bowe Beauty Exfoliation Night Resurfacing + Brightening Serum (retail $79). • Night 2: Use a retinoid on clean skin. Now that the skin has been exfoliated, the retinoid can penetrate deeper into the skin barrier. Bowe recommends SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.3 (retail $70). • Night 3: This night gives the skin a break. Instead of using an exfoliant, focus on moisture with super-hydrating serums and moisturizers. Bowe recommends Dr. Whitney Bowe Beauty Bowe Glowe Microbiome Nourishing Cream (retail $95). • Night 4: This is another night focused on repair mode. Seal the skin with a gentle moisturizer before bed. Then, repeat the cycle. According to Bowe, the beauty of skin cycling is that it can be personalized for your client's skin care needs. If your client has extra sensitive skin—or is new to using powerful skin care actives—Bowe recommends her "Gentle Skin Cycling" routine found on her TikTok, @drwhitneybowe. For your clients who can tolerate powerful actives, she suggests exploring her "Advanced Skin Cycling" routine. "No format is 'better' than the other," she says. "The 'best' approach is the one your skin loves most." Eden Gilliam's Morning and Skin Cycling Routines A client's skin care routine should vary since the skin is a "living organ that functions on a circadian rhythm," Gilliam says. And just as sun protection is used during the day to protect against the sun's damaging rays, products with actives are best used at night to avoid sun sensitivity. "I would be consistent with sun care daily [with] a more robust routine nightly and cycling my exfoliants two days on and three days off ." Gilliam suggests two diff erent routines for morning and night. MORNING ROUTINE • Step 1: Apply a gentle cleanser. Gilliam recommends EVE MILAN New York Gentle Cleansing Gel No. 103 (retail $25). • Step 2: Use a vitamin C serum or other antioxidant serum. Gilliam recommends Flora & Noor Bright Side Serum (retail $34). • Step 3: Finish with sunscreen. Gilliam recommends Unsun Mineral Tinted Face Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30 in Light/ Medium and Medium/Dark (retail $29).