Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1489006
New member benefit! Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 55 especially for clients with concerns about acne and hyperpigmentation. Trampetti also loves recommending antioxidants, since they protect the skin from oxidative stress and free radical damage. Some of her favorite antioxidants for pregnant clients include mulberry extract, green tea, licorice extract, and bearberry. Humectants are another option, as they work to protect the skin barrier and help skin retain moisture. These include hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and aloe vera. GENTLE IS THE NAME OF THE GAME Trampetti takes a cautious approach to treatments on her prenatal clients: "We don't want to overstimulate or freak [the skin] out because the body is freaking out on its own." Her rule of thumb is, "If you have to plug something in, you most likely shouldn't be using it on your face [when you're pregnant]." She advises against electrotherapy like microcurrent, high frequency, and ultrasonic, and phototherapy such as lasers and IPL. The safety of laser and light treatment is difficult to determine, but given the skin changes clients experience during pregnancy, "any laser treatments performed on the skin might lead to different reactions compared with those observed in the pre- pregnancy state." 12 It is also extremely important to avoid injectable neurotoxins, like Botox and Dysport, as toxin manufacturers do not endorse their use during pregnancy for cosmetic reasons. Dermal fillers should also be avoided based on manufacturer recommendations. 13 Trampetti describes treatments such as microneedling and microdermabrasion as too stimulating for pregnant clients. She also advises against the use of steam because it can be dehydrating and might be too much heat. A pregnant client experiencing acne might be curious about chemical peels, but these are best avoided. Duncan says, "I usually tell someone if it's strong enough to peel off layers of your skin, you probably shouldn't be doing it while you're growing layers of skin internally." In lieu of more powerful chemical exfoliants, Trampetti recommends a gentle manual scrub but cautions against cleansing brushes because they could overstimulate the skin. "If we A pregnant client might be looking to address pregnancy-related skin concerns, but they might also simply be looking to indulge in a bit of "me time" to feel pampered and distracted om the hard work their body is doing. "be considered as a Category C product, meaning carefully considered use in pregnancy. The minimal dermal invasion means the product should be relatively safe to use in pregnancy as a topical peel." 9 Glycolic acid has lower dermal absorption and could be considered a safer alternative to BHA. 10 Trampetti still cautions against glycolic acid, since it is the smallest molecule of the AHA acids, meaning it could potentially be the most irritating of the AHAs. She recommends mandelic acid and lactic acid instead (again 10 percent or less only), since they are larger molecules and therefore a bit gentler. Lactic acid at a 2 percent concentration has shown to be an effective treatment of gestational acne without any negative pregnancy outcomes. It has a low level of dermal penetration, which means it likely has no systemic effects and could be considered safe for use during pregnancy. 11 Trampetti also tells pregnant clients to "look for hidden ingredients, since a lot of products hide acids or retinoids." Another ingredient to keep an eye out for is benzoyl peroxide, which appears in a lot of acne washes, creams, and serums. It is likely safe but falls into the "ask your doctor" category. Ultimately, estheticians can make recommendations about the safety of ingredients, but it is best practice from both a legal and ethical standpoint to urge clients to defer to their medical professional. SAFE, EFFECTIVE INGREDIENTS Luckily, there are many ingredients that are proven to be safe and effective for use during pregnancy. Pregnant clients might be looking for advice on tweaks to their existing skin care regimen or even to establish a new one. Trampetti's list of pregnancy-safe ingredients includes stabilized vitamin C derivatives, antioxidants, and humectants for building a skin care regimen for a pregnant client. Vitamin C is Trampetti's ingredient of choice. She describes it as a "wonder vitamin" that serves as a potent antioxidant as well as "a natural skin brightening, anti-inflammatory agent, and helps inhibit the body's production of pigment that leads to melasma and dark spots." She recommends stabilized vitamin C derivatives like magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate,