ASCP Skin Deep


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96 ASCP Skin Deep Winter 2023 BEHIND THE TREND Slugging Investigating the good, the bad, and the science of this viral fad ALTHOUGH IT MIGHT SOUND LIKE a slippery, slimy bug, slugging is actually a skin care trend—and a viral one at that, with over 4.8 billion views on TikTok. The trend consists of locking in hydration by applying an occlusive "topcoat" of petroleum jelly to the skin. Simple, right? Well, it doesn't work for everyone. We tapped Brian Goodwin, esthetician and international trainer at Éminence Organic Skin Care, to break down everything you should know about slugging. THE GOOD The trend is intended to seal in hydration, reduce water loss, and increase protection for dry, aging skin and sensitive skin (given the product used is free of fragrances, colorants, and comedogenic oils). In a perfect scenario, slugging helps skin look smoother and more radiant, and it helps reduce the appearance of ne lines and wrinkles. THE BAD Goodwin says this trend isn't for those who dislike petrol- derived chemicals. "The concerns around the petroleum derivatives contained in these products include their sourcing and level of purity, and the belief that they clog the pores, impede the skin's natural cellular turnover rates, and interfere with the skin's excretions." Slugging might also deter some people, particularly those with oily skin or texture aversion, due to the occlusive and heavy nature of the products used. THE SCIENCE The idea here is that slugging helps reduce trans- epidermal water loss (TEWL), especially while sleeping. The occlusive moisturizer creates a physical barrier from the outside world and locks in surface hydration. This provides "augmented protection from irritants, pollutants, and external aggressors that can trigger in ammation, breakouts, and hyperpigmentation in the skin," Goodwin says. THE CONCLUSION "Rather than jumping on the treatment-naming trend, [take] the conversation back to the bene cial purpose of the trend relevant to the client—hydration, protection, healing, radiance, and smoothness," Goodwin says. Talk to your clients about the tried-and-true techniques behind slugging and how they may use them to ful ll their skin needs. For clients who want to dip their toes into the trend, Goodwin recommends solid oils that transform to liquid with more occlusive oils like camellia, patauá, and marula.

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