Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1464744
New member benefit! Get the ASCP SkinPro app at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 39 does not occur unless damage is done to the underlying dermis. In exfoliation cases, you are well above the dermis, so set your client's mind at ease. You may need to readjust the rest of your client's skin care routine as well. Eliminate foaming cleansers (which can be drying and exacerbate existing issues), retinol products (which are too harsh for use on compromised skin), and, of course, any physical or chemical exfoliators (scrubs and acids). The goal is to keep it simple, gentle, and hydrating. A nourishing vitamin C cream will help soothe the skin and expedite the healing process. Hyaluronic acid will also help establish moisture and bind it there to nurture the stratum corneum. And, of course, your client will want to protect their skin with a good sunscreen. As their skin recovers, keep cleansers and other facial products on the gentle side. Introduce exfoliation back into your client's at-home regimen when their skin has recovered. Have them start slowly by exfoliating once a week for two to three weeks. Exfoliation is best in moderation. After all, skin already does the heavy lifting on its own. All it needs is a gentle nudge every now and then. LESS IS MORE Remind your clients of a fact they may forget: The skin exfoliates itself. This natural process is called desquamation. It usually takes 28 days from start to finish. It's during this time that new skin cells develop, mature, and shed. This means some people, with the right routine and maintenance, might not have to exfoliate at all. The key here is to teach clients to use hydrating serums and moisturizers, as these will impart moisture into the skin and hold it there to promote natural desquamation. Properly hydrating the skin will hydrate the enzymes within the skin that are responsible for promoting natural desquamation. This is the exfoliation-hydration axis at work in our skin. Proper exfoliation leaves a fresh, healthy, and fully cleansed epidermal surface; hydration brings the much-needed moisture to the skin. Exfoliation can deliver clearer skin when done correctly, but if you mix and match different types of exfoliators or use a single product too often, your favorite exfoliants have the potential to do more harm than good. It's one area in skin care where less really is more. Some clients may worry about potential scarring, but keep in mind that you are working on the stratum corneum; scarring does not occur unless damage is done to the underlying dermis. OVEREXFOLIATION RECOVERY 101 If you find you've over-exfoliated a client, a cool compress can be applied to alleviate sensations. Adding a hydrocortisone cream may also help with redness and inflammation. If you're performing a treatment, make sure to thoroughly remove all of the chosen exfoliant. Tone the skin with a calming toner and a light application of a gentle moisturizer or balm. The best practice is to not keep applying more products with hopes of counteracting the freshly overprocessed skin. Instruct the client not to keep cleansing the skin; less is more in this case. Encourage your client to apply a light occlusive balm or gentle moisturizer that will fortify the acid mantle and hence, the microbiome. The challenged skin will rebound within a few days. However, make note of this on their client notes, as you do not want a repeat performance of this unwanted outcome. Some clients may worry about potential scarring, but keep in mind that you are working on the stratum corneum; scarring SKIN PHYSIOLOGY