ASCP Skin Deep

WINTER 2022

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New member benefit! Get the ASCP SkinPro App at ascpskincare.com/skinpro 31 SKIN PHYSIOLOGY FUNGAL ACNE Although the name might be confusing, fungal acne is not acne at all. Fungal acne is often mistaken for acne vulgaris because it visually presents itself in a similar fashion. Malassezia yeast is the root cause of fungal acne, but the yeast is a normal inhabitant of human skin. The yeast is part of the bigger picture of the skin's microbiome. Under certain conditions, like an imbalanced microbiome, infection of the pilosebaceous unit can result. The microbiome of the skin can become imbalanced from humidity, overactive sebum production, excessive sweating, occlusion, certain antibiotics, and even immunosuppressants. A key indicator that fungal acne is at play is if the client mentions their skin feels itchy in the affected area. The fungus lives down in the follicle; to prevent infection, it is important for cells within the follicle lining to desquamate properly. Patience is key while correcting fungal acne. HELPING ACNE CLIENTS Today's esthetician has access to a wide variety of products to help clients treat their acne. There is no magic cure to resolve all acne lesions. Patience and critical thinking are essential to work toward mitigating acne impactions and alleviating the negative impact acne has on clients. Acne is not curable, and a one-size-fits-all approach will not work. Not all remedies will work for everyone or in every case; however, the process of trial and error will help find personalized methods to diminish acneic skin. Remember, you can always refer clients out to medical care. Encourage your clients to talk with their physician about acne sores that don't respond to basic care or continue to get worse. Part of the acne-correcting process is understanding what is within the esthetic scope of practice. Continued education on the matter helps empower forward-thinking estheticians to identify acne lesions and customize treatment plans. Notes 1. ScienceDaily.com, "Acne Stigma Linked to Lower Overall Quality of Life, Irish Study Finds," September 28, 2018, www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2018/09/180928162311.htm. 2. B. Dréno et al., "Cutibacterium Acnes (Propionibacterium Acnes) and Acne Vulgaris: A Brief Look at the Latest Updates," Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology 32, Supplement 2 (June 2018): 5–14, https://doi.org/10.1111/jdv.15043. INGREDIENTS AND TREATMENTS FOR ACNE TYPES Acne Types Ingredients/Treatments CLOSED COMEDONES glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid, retinol, bisabolol, diet (more essential fatty acids) OPEN COMEDONES salicylic acid, glycolic acid, alpha/beta peels, retinol PAPULAR ACNE enzymes, hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, sunscreen FUNGAL ACNE salicylic acid, sulfur, ketoconazole, lactobacillus, glycolic acid, retinol, proper hygiene after exercising HORMONAL ACNE salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, sulfur masks, vitamin A, vitamin C, kaolin clay PUSTULAR ACNE glycolic acid, salicylic acid, azelaic acid, trichloroacetic acid, refer to an endocrinologist estudio bloom/unsplash

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