ASCP Skin Deep

MARCH | APRIL 2021

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Listen to the ASCP Esty Talk podcast at ascpskincare.com/podcasts 33 Exfoliate regularly. Dead cell buildup from an impaired desquamation process inhibits the functioning of a healthy microbiome. Recommend products that provide a gentle daily exfoliation or incorporate a weekly mild exfoliation with a mild alpha hydroxy acid or enzyme treatment. Choose ingredients that support the skin barrier function. Ceramides, essential fatty acids, and hyaluronic acid help nourish the lipid barrier. Prebiotics establish a food source and provide nutrients that help nourish and strengthen good bacteria. Plant sugars (like xylitol) and carbohydrates (like fructooligosaccharides) are potent sources of prebiotics. Sell that sunscreen. Chemical sunscreens can disrupt the microbiome, so be sure to o‹er mineral- based sunscreens that use titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to create a physical barrier and protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation. With a new awareness and updated information, educate your clients about the microbiome. Teach them how to achieve—and maintain—skin integrity by fostering a healthy, bacteria-rich diet and skin care plan. Notes 1. Hans Raskov, et al., "Irritable Bowel Syndrome, the Microbiota and the Gut-Brain Axis," Gut Microbes 7, no. 5 (July 2016): 365–83, https://doi.org/10.1080/19490976.2016.1218585. 2. Kristi Pahr, "How to Get More Bacteria on Your Face— 'Cause That's Actually Something You Want," Greatist Newsletter, February 13, 2019, www.greatist.com/live/skin- microbiome-how-to-cultivate-good-skin-bacteria#1. Resources Malan-Muller, Stefanie, et al., "The Gut Microbiome and Mental Health: Implications for Anxiety- and Trauma- Related Disorders," OMICS 22, no. 2 (February 2018): 90–107, https://doi.org/10.1089/omi.2017.0077. Quigley, Eamonn M. M., "Gut Bacteria in Health and Disease," Gastroenterology and Hepatology 9, no. 9 (September 2013): 560–69, www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3983973. SKIN PHYSIOLOGY Chemical sunscreens can disrupt the microbiome, so be sure to oer mineral-based sunscreens that use titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to create a physical barrier and protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation.

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