ASCP Skin Deep

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2021

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Listen to the ASCP Esty Talk podcast ascpskincare.com/podcasts 29 Stratum Spinosum Stratum Granulosum Stratum Corneum Stratum Lucidum Epidermis Dermis Stratum Germinativum cells) reside here. If pigmentation is an issue during the skin analysis, you will want to think about tyrosinase inhibitors (ingredients such as hydroquinone, kojic, arbutin, licorice, etc.) to minimize pigment. If redness is an issue during the skin analysis, you will want to think about calming and hydrating ingredients, such as chamomile, aloe, hyaluronic acid, and rose hip, that affect the Langerhans cells and calm sensitivities. Stratum Granulosum Natural moisturizing factors (NMF) are released at this level, and keratinization takes place. This process makes your skin more resistant to friction and water, yet pliable. If this layer isn't formed correctly, from plenty of water and a good diet full of essential fatty acids (EFAs), your client will experience transepidermal water loss (TEWL) or an evaporation of water from the skin. This lack of moisture leads to dehydrated skin and acne, where dull dry skin cells pile upon themselves. This layer will appreciate hyaluronic acid and a good serum full of EFAs. Stratum Lucidum Stratum lucidum is the layer responsible for your fingerprints (whorls). You'll see this area on your fingers and toes. Stratum Corneum Stratum corneum is the outermost layer of the epidermis and is responsible for maintaining the skin's integrity and health through hydration. This layer is comprised of corneocytes that started their lives as keratinocytes and transitioned upward through the various strata of the epidermis. Keratinocytes are preprogrammed from the beginning of their life cycle to die and desquamate, flaking off of the surface to make way for new cells. It takes water to activate the enzymes protease and glycosidase, which are is responsible for that? Or if your client has noticeable pigmentation, can you explain the process of melanogenesis? To brush up on your skin histology, let's review what is happening at each layer of the skin—the epidermis and dermis. EPIDERMIS The outermost layer of skin provides a waterproof barrier and creates our skin tone. Let's do a little review of the five layers of the epidermis. Stratum Germinativum/Basal Layer Two specialized cells live in the stratum germinativum/basal layer—the keratinocyte and the melanocyte. Melanogenesis is the process of melanin being made to offer its protection to the awaiting keratinocyte. This area also promotes mitosis, in which cells divide and propel keratinocytes upward. Each individual keratinocyte begins its life here in the lowest of the five layers of the epidermis, and then migrates up through the other layers, morphing into a corneocyte, and finally desquamating from the surface of the skin 15–45 days after it began its journey. Stratum Spinosum This is where keratinocytes uptake the melanosomes (packets of melanin) offered by the melanocyte. Langerhans cells (immunity SKIN PHYSIOLOGY

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