Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1278890
62 ascp skin deep september/october 2020 WHY BODY EXFOLIATION? Stress can have enormous effects on the body and the skin through many bodily functions, including the production of the stress hormone cortisol. Cortisol levels normally undergo daily changes, which can be significantly disrupted by stress. These disruptions can trigger everything from immune dysfunction to inflammation and skin problems (such as hyperpigmentation), as well the proliferation of skin cells. 3 Plump skin cells are continuously traveling from the lower layers of the epidermis to the upper layers of the stratum corneum. Once skin cells reach the surface, they are no longer living cells but flat and scaly debris, ready to be sloughed off through a process known as desquamation. Typically, it takes about one month for a skin cell to pass through all the epidermal layers and be sloughed off, but a disruption (such as stress) in the body's ability to regulate can slow down cell renewal, and result in dull, tired-looking skin. Oily skin tends to saturate dead skin cells, making it difficult for them to fall off naturally. Dry skin tends to let dead skin cells accumulate too quickly, which can make skin look dry and dull. The key benefits of exfoliation include reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation or uneven skin tone, helping unclog pores to reduce breakouts (which can manifest on the back, buttocks, and thighs), minimizing the appearance of skin imperfections (such as stretch marks and cellulite), and, perhaps most importantly, providing a smoother, more receptive surface for the application and absorption of skin care ingredients to restore the proper moisture barrier to the skin. TYPES OF EXFOLIATION In the spa, there are many options for body exfoliation treatments, from head-to-toe scrubs to spot-treating hands and feet. In general, there are three methods of exfoliation: • Manual: Using a tool that scrubs, like a brush, loofah, or washcloth. • Granular: Using a cleansing product that contains materials such as sugar, rice wax, or almond meal. • Chemical: Using a product or treatment that contains gentle exfoliating acids, like alpha hydroxy, beta hydroxy, or salicylic acids, or enzymes, which help remove dead skin cells and are gentle and nonabrasive on the skin. All of these methods can be incorporated into a body exfoliation service. DRY BRUSH TREATMENT This vigorous form of manual exfoliation helps loosen dead skin cells on the body while stimulating and invigorating the skin surface. Dry brushing is also great for prepping skin for waxing, as it helps lift the hair from the skin surface, prevents ingrown hairs, and allows for more even hair removal. Use a dry body brush with a wooden handle and all-natural boar bristles, since this fiber is softer on the skin and can be cleaned and maintained between treatments. To dry brush the body: • Start at the feet and move upward, toward the heart, using light pressure. • Stop at the breast area and dry brush arms, again in a soft, gentle, circular motion going upward toward the shoulders. • Exfoliate the delicate décolleté and neck by using a smaller face brush. Be sure not to be too aggressive. • Follow dry brushing with a shower or bath to wash away the loosened material, and then finish with body oil or cream that contains moisturizing natural extracts (such as mafura seed butter, seaweed, and vitamin E). Note that if skin becomes the least bit red or irritated, you are being too aggressive. Also, don't dry brush if the client has shaved that day. SUGAR SCRUB BODY TREATMENT This deep cleansing and invigorating exfoliating treatment creates head-to-toe silky-smooth skin by combining softening sugar with other natural ingredients (such as aloe, cocoa, coffee, lemongrass, matcha, seaweed, and a multi-fruit AHA complex to refine the skin). Spa Protocol (60 minutes) Provide the client with disposable underwear and bra if requested. Place a bowl of water infused with relaxing essential oils under the headrest. Instruct the client to lie facedown on the table, and cover them with a Mylar sheet. Uncover one leg at a time, and spray with alcohol. Gently buff skin with a dry brush to remove grime and oils. Repeat this process on the opposite leg, and then on the back. Remove 4 ounces of the chosen sugar scrub from the container and place it in a rubber bowl. Dispense 1 teaspoon of scrub. Begin massaging the back with moistened fingertips or hot stones. Perform circular massage for 5 minutes. Cover the client's back with the Mylar sheet, and then proceed to one leg.