ASCP Skin Deep

May/June 2013

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to activate the enzymes responsible for regulating this process. If we do not drink enough water, the rate of cell turnover is reduced and skin texture issues can manifest. When developing a treatment plan for a client with skin texture issues, it is important to understand that a series of treatments will be needed. The Dermis: Fibroblasts, Collagen, and Elastin The dermis is composed of two layers��� papillary and reticular���and sits on top of the subcutaneous layer of fat and other tissues. It is the framework and support system upon which many other systems rest: the capillaries, nerve endings, and other cells. The important cell known as the fibroblast lives in the dermis. Fibroblasts are responsible for making the basic elements of the extracellular matrix, the ground substance, and the collagen and elastin that give the skin its structure and resilience. Improving Skin Texture When developing a treatment plan for a client with skin texture issues, it is important to understand that a series of treatments will be needed. These issues do not respond to just one microdermabrasion session or one peel (not even a single deep peel under medical supervision). In the skin analysis segment of your treatment, find out how much water the client drinks daily. Call his or her attention to the fact that a lack of water slows the skin���s renewal process. The goal that you should set for your clients is to establish a well-hydrated epidermis. The skin���s need for water is why products containing hyaluronic acid are helpful when treating common issues such as comedones, hyperkeratinization, and keratosis pilaris: this ingredient assists cellular migration through better skin hydration. Keep in mind that 80 percent of the client���s success will come from consistent daily use of professional products at home, backed up by a series of professional treatments such as light peels. The esthetician who takes the time to educate the client on the importance of a professionally recommended home-care routine will increase his or her success rate when it comes to client satisfaction and retention. Let���s look at how to redirect your client���s thought process away from the quick fix to a longer series of treatments that will be so much more beneficial for their skin. A paradigm shift is necessary for you, too. Most estheticians think of the professional treatment session as the thing they are really trying to sell and see retail products for home care as a nice extra if the client is willing. What happens if we turn that around? First, educate the client about the importance of using your recommended home-care routine to address this specific skin issue. Make this the first requirement of the treatment plan, not an afterthought. If she is willing to commit to this routine and purchase the necessary products, you can consider her qualified for a ���ticket��� to your recommended series of professional treatments. Second, keep the actual treatments short and very affordable. For skin texture issues, this is not difficult. You will cleanse the skin, apply an enzyme or peel, neutralize if needed, and finish with SPF���each session will take less than 30 minutes. See the sidebar on page 31 for a sample treatment plan that can be customized to your client���s individual needs. By keeping the treatment prices lower, your client will be able to afford to purchase a full line of home-care products from you. This new way of thinking creates a win-win situation. The client wins with great skin; you win by making the same amount of money with less hands-on treatment time and creating a dedicated customer who gets results and raves about your expertise. I suggest you position yourself as a skin care coach. Establish rapport with your clients. Listen to their concerns and make recommendations based on those concerns. But don���t lose sight of the fact that at the end of the day, it is the client who is truly responsible for his or her skin, because it is the client���s daily habits that will make a long-term difference to skin texture. Your expertise and education will be the guidance clients need to create beautiful skin. Dave Waggoner is director of education and public relations at Skin Script Skin Care in Tempe, Arizona. His background includes a bachelor���s degree in teaching and a master���s degree in education. He is a licensed esthetician with experience as both an educator and a practitioner. Contact him at education@skinscriptrx.com or www.skinscriptrx.com. Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 33

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