ASCP Skin Deep

May/June 2013

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Educating the client can help avoid a bad experience. Why is hard wax less painful? Because it does not stick to the skin, only to the hair. Conversely, soft wax adheres to the skin and removes some skin cells along with the hair, which does not necessarily cause problems, but does create more risk and more chance that the waxing experience will be painful for the client. With this in mind, you might think it would be better to use hard wax in every situation. There are a couple of reasons why this is not true. First, hard wax must be applied in small patches, making it too time-consuming to use on large areas, and second, the cost per client is higher. From both the client���s viewpoint and the esthetician���s, the time and expense involved can be prohibitive. This is why soft waxes are used on any large area that is not very sensitive, such as the legs. If some hair is missed during waxing, the right wax to catch these stragglers is hard wax. Rewaxing with soft wax can irritate and sometimes lift the skin, leaving a painful abrasion. Small dabs of hard wax will make those last few hairs come out quickly and without irritation. Skin Preparation Always have new waxing clients fill out paperwork to let you know their health history, including any allergies, medical conditions, and previous experiences with waxing. Do they have any infections? Are they on any medication or using skin care products that would thin the skin? Have they had their skin lifted during waxing before? With repeat clients, take a minute to check the form you have on file and ask if anything has changed. A waxing form can be downloaded from www.ascpskincare.com���log in to the Members section and look under Business Tools. If you know the client���s health history and you have a good knowledge of waxing precautions, you have already eliminated most risks. The next step is to train your clients to think of waxing as a service that requires skin prep at home a few days in advance. Professional prewaxing home-care products aim to clean out follicles so the hair comes out easier, with less chance of infection, rash, or skin lifting. Most of these products contain salicylic acid (in the same chemical family as aspirin), which some believe has the additional benefit of making the skin less sensitive to pain, although this is not proven. If the client is allergic to aspirin, products with salicylic acid must not be used���another good reason to keep an updated health history form for every client. When you have found a skin prep product you like, sell it to your regular waxing clients as home care, and tell them how to use it (based on the manufacturer���s instructions). Typically, products are applied once or twice a day for at least three days prior to being waxed. Pay close attention to the application instructions, as many products can bleach or stain fabric if care is not taken. Finally, educate the client on the best times to schedule a waxing appointment. For women, there can be a significant difference in the amount of pain they experience from waxing at different times in their menstrual cycle. Before and during menstrual periods, the skin is much more sensitive. Ideally, always wax after the client���s period, not before or during���or, at least, explain this to the client so she can make an informed decision. Another bad time to wax is when the client is taking antibiotics. Even the best preparation and technique cannot prevent increased pain and risk of skin lifting in these situations. Educating the client can help avoid a bad experience. Wax On, Wax Off Now it���s time for the actual service. Cleanse the skin, then apply the prewaxing product one last time. Allow it to dry or absorb before moving on to the next step. Always heat test the wax, no matter what kind of wax you are using. Even though hard waxes are used at a lower temperature than soft waxes, you cannot risk your client���s safety by neglecting to test. Apply a small amount on the back of your own wrist first. If the temperature seems safe to you, test a small amount of wax on the client���s wrist, asking if it is a comfortable Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 19

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