Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1191176
68 ascp skin deep january/february 2020 The beauty industry has been slow to acknowledge the shift in our culture. Beauty brands have catered to white skin since World War II and the introduction of foundation makeup. Although the research substantiated claims that people of color did not spend money on cosmetics, it was due to the fact that the options available were inappropriate for their skin tones. The release and skyrocketing profi tability of Fenty in 2017, a makeup line created by the celebrity Rihanna, was a wake-up call to giants in the industry like L'Oréal.3 It was fi nally time to integrate the tiny shelf in the grocery store beauty aisle labeled "Ethnic" into the mainstream beauty business. Whether you're a new esthetician or a seasoned veteran, chances are you can improve your knowledge about caring for skin of color. As our country transforms into a multiethnic melting pot, estheticians need to get busy and get educated. Skin of color is not the same as Caucasian skin; it has some distinct characteristics and common skin disorders, and requires a carefully tailored consultation and specifi c treatment recommendations for success. It's more than just melanin content. THE SAME, BUT DIFFERENT All humans have about the same number of melanocytes, which is surprising information to most people. The diff erence is how active those melanocytes are in producing melanin. Caucasian skin, for instance, will have more active melanocytes in sun-exposed areas of skin and quiet or dormant melanocytes in areas that are not consistently exposed to UV radiation. Skin of color, especially black skin of African descent and East-Indian skin, will have melanocytes that produce melanin consistently, whether the skin is exposed to the sun or not. Black skin of African descent also has binucleated fi broblasts, so the cells reproduce at double the rate.4 Increased melanin production creates an issue with post-infl ammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Any stress to the skin that creates infl ammation can cause melanocytes to produce even more melanin to protect against the infl ammation. The PIH can take months or even years to fade. Larger eccrine glands are an anatomical commonality with skin of color. Asian skin has the largest eccrine glands of any ethnicity. There is research that black skin of African descent has larger eccrine glands due to an evolutionary coping mechanism in response to the equatorial heat in Africa. This can result in a vicious cycle, since larger eccrine glands can lead to a greater incidence of acne, and the acneic lesions, papules, and pustules can create infl ammation that spirals into PIH. Although skin of color has greater melanin production, which is protective against UV radiation, it can also be more sensitive when we factor in the increased rates of trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL). As skin becomes drier, its barrier function is compromised and can become sensitized to ingredients, fragrances, and irritation. Furthermore, sensitized skin is more likely to become infl amed, thus increasing the risk of PIH. As our country transforms into a multiethnic melting pot, estheticians need to get busy and get educated.