Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1191176
72 ascp skin deep january/february 2020 impaired barrier function, inflammation, and PIH. A fine-grit attachment with fewer passes and hydrating post-treatment products is a recommended strategy for microdermabrasion. Nano chip facials are popular, and skin of color responds well when using a glide with hyaluronic acid. Don't use a cocktailed glide unless you do a skin patch test first. These products were not always manufactured with the intent of penetration into the skin, but rather to sit topically on the skin. Deeper penetration of a vitamin C glide, for example, could lead to inflammation and then PIH. Lasers LED light therapy with non-heat–generating LED light devices are effective in healing multiethnic skin and restoring homeostasis. The 1064 Nd:YAG laser is the gold standard for treating skin of color for hair removal. This wavelength has the least scatter in the deeper tissues and is less likely to cause hyperpigmentation when used with appropriate settings. Picosecond lasers have been FDA approved for treating melasma. These lasers deliver energy in a trillionth of a second. The laser pulse is so quick and powerful that the light energy becomes a sound wave that fractures the melanin into tiny particles for the body's macrophages to pick up and take away. The heat dissipates so quickly that the skin doesn't have time to create inflammation. HOME CARE When you are making recommendations for home skin care, introduce products gradually. If your client has a reaction, it will be easier to determine which product is the culprit. Based on your skin assessment, your recommendations will include an appropriate cleanser, toner, and moisturizer. Skin-lightening agents should include nonhydroquinone-based tyrosinase inhibitors. Hydroquinone has been banned internationally but is still legal in the When you are making recommendations for home skin care, introduce products gradually. If your client has a reaction, it will be easier to determine which product is the culprit. United States. It's a very effective skin lightener, but studies show carcinogenic potential, as well as high levels of mercury. Overuse can lead to ochronosis, an unalterable darkening of the skin. Short-term hydroquinone use may be necessary to get stubborn pigmentation to even out, but it should not be used longer than three months without switching to a different melanocyte inhibitor. Kojic acid, arbutin, tranexamic acid, niacinamide, and azelaic acid are good options for lightening ingredients. A combination of several is common as they can work synergistically. A combination may lighten the skin with less irritation and in less time than one product alone. Be careful not to overexfoliate. A client with skin of color may have issues regarding TEWL, and barrier function balance can be upset by aggressive use of exfoliating products.