ASCP Skin Deep

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

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ascp now offers advanced modality insurance! ascpskincare.com/ami 33 agents. Look for products that have been dermatologist-tested and are nonacnegenic. Another problem ingredient group for oily and acne-prone skin is D&C red dyes. These dyes are derived from coal tar and can cause comedo development—especially closed comedones. These impactions appear as small "under-the-surface" bumps and can occur anywhere on the face, but they are most common in the cheek and chin areas. DRY AND AGING SKIN These skin types are basically the opposite of oily skin in terms of ingredient needs. Alipidic (oil-dry) skin types do not generally form clogged pores and don't have acne issues, so choosing makeup can be a little easier. However, dry skin can have issues with makeup caking in wrinkles, and saggy, aging skin on an eyelid does not look good with frosted blue eye shadow! Cream foundations and liquids are the best bets for these skin types. These spread easily and contain emollients that help add a bit of a layer on top of dry skin that helps soften the appearance of fine lines. Silicones are often used as the vehicles for dry skin makeup, as they "ride the surface" of the skin so pigments and powder ingredients are less likely to cake in wrinkles and dry areas. Dry skin should be treated with good hydrating and moisture-binding ingredients, like ceramides and hyaluronic acid, prior to makeup application. When the skin is well hydrated and in good condition, makeup always looks better and more natural. In general, "sparkly" makeup or frosted or super bright eye shadows—and heavy use of powder—does not look great on dry or aging skin. Pretty, muted colors like lilacs, plums, and gray-blues are good choices. SENSITIVE SKIN The main makeup issue with sensitive skin is to make sure the products have been thoroughly dermatologist-tested. Fragrance-free is also important, as fragrances are the number-one allergen in cosmetics. Generally, sensitive skin clients do well with light mineral powder foundation, which can help cover redness without looking like heavy coverage makeup. EDUCATION MATTERS Help your clients make the right cosmetic choices by offering a variety of professional foundations and color palettes and teaching proper use. And, of course, help them understand the skin care that happens prior to using makeup can make a huge difference in the wearability of the products—and can make skin look fresh and naturally beautiful! Just as there are many different types of makeup— creams, liquids, powders, and more—there are many skin types to consider when using makeup.

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