ASCP Skin Deep

July | August 2019

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70 ascp skin deep july/august 2019 To understand the tremendous growth in CBD for skin care, you first must have a basic understanding of what CBD is and what it does. CBD is a plant compound found in the plant species Cannabis sativa L., commonly known as hemp. This plant species can produce a variety of specialized compounds called cannabinoids. These compounds can be distilled, heated, or otherwise treated to produce beneficial compounds for topical use. While individual CBD fans may experiment with infusing CBD oil into handcrafted products, the beauty trend seems to be both new and established manufacturers jumping on the bandwagon and producing lotions, serums, masks, or other beauty products using CBD oil. When used in topical skin care products and treatments, CBD's benefits can be summarized as anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antioxidative, and potentially effective in controlling sebum. CBD oil is rich in vitamins A, C, and E, and can help restore moisture and increase hydration while minimizing the appearance of wrinkles.2 With this lineup of potential benefits, it's easy to see why manufacturers and skin care professionals are excited about CBD's possibilities. A huge boon for CBD products was a result of the 2018 Farm Bill, which removed hemp from the Controlled Substances Act.3 Historically, hemp was not differentiated from other cannabis plants. They were all lumped together, including plants that are associated with their psychoactive effects, such as marijuana. Neither hemp nor CBD is psychoactive; in other words, CBD can't get you high. And, as long as the product contains no more than 0.3 percent of THC (the chemical that does cause psychoactive effects), hemp is now legal per the federal guidelines.4 While there are restrictions for growers and manufacturers, these landmark changes have opened the door for new products. The US Food and Drug Administration intends to monitor and regulate ingestible and topical products, as well as claims to treat, cure, or prevent disease.5 ARE CBD PRODUCTS A FIT FOR YOU? Are your clients asking about CBD products and treatments? Do you focus on acne programs or treating aging skin? If so, adding a CBD facial or other skin care treatment to your menu may be a good fit. A good way to begin is to familiarize yourself with common terminology used to describe the products available. Within such a large range of CBD skin care products, there are many differences. Variations occur in the sourcing of the product, other ingredients included, and, perhaps most importantly, the amount of CBD contained in the product you are considering. Many brands will be happy to provide additional ingredient information, including the results of any third-party testing, so that you can rest assured the CBD product you select maintains the federal standard of less than 0.3 percent THC. Today's skin care client trusts you to select effective products for both retail and for use in your backbar. Depending on your intention, you can offer CBD products as an add-on to an existing facial or create a specific protocol. DO YOUR RESEARCH Launching a new treatment, service, or retail product begins by doing some market research. Survey your competition to determine what products and treatments they currently offer so you can create something unique for your brand. Also, consider the age and skin care needs of your current clientele. A recent report from the beauty and consumer research firm the Benchmarking Company found that consumers in the 18–38 age group were the most likely to purchase or try a CBD-based beauty product. Baby boomers were far less likely to be open to trying or buying these new beauty

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