Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/108113
Look for these signs, and note the locations on the assessment form: • Elastosis (sagging skin). • icrocirculation problems M (shown by redness when the client first sits up). • igns of aging: medium-depth S wrinkles, larger pores due to collagen loss, pigmentation issues. Now lay the client back down, apply eye pads, and put on gloves in preparation for the next step. Put a warm neck roll behind the client's neck. This positions the head correctly and is more comfortable. With the magnifying lamp positioned 1–2 inches from the client's face, look for these conditions: • Comedones. • Hyper/hypopigmentation. • Scarring. • nusual growths or anything U suspicious. • ore size and pattern of distribution. P Fine/small pores mean dry skin. Small to medium pores distributed through the t-zone and cheeks indicate combination skin. Medium to large pores (orange peel texture) show oily skin. Finally, turn off the lights in the room and use the Woods lamp. Small orange/ yellow dots indicate sebaceous gland activity. The chart included with your lamp will give you an idea of what you are looking at. Note all findings on your skin assessment form. Step 2: Touch Roll your fingers up the client's cheeks. You are feeling for any areas of rough texture (hyperkeratinization) and also testing for how much bounce-back the skin exhibits (sagging areas won't bounce back as much). Follow the same process on the neck and décolleté. Press on the center of cheeks, nose, and décolleté with medium pressure, looking for immediate redness in the skin (indicating sensitivity). Step 3: Ask Ask questions based on the client's health history form, making sure to clarify anything you are unsure of. Other questions to ask: "How long after cleansing does your skin start feeling oily again?" • 1–2 hours: oily skin. • Within 6 hours: combination skin. • The next day, or never: dry skin. • Feels oily, and is very uncomfortable: sensitive skin. "Does rough fabric or wind irritate your skin?" This is called tactile sensitivity and can indicate possible rosacea and skin barrier damage. "Do you have any sensitivity to cosmetics?" Note any sensitivities and take them into account when choosing treatments and products for this client. "Are you using products intended for a particular skin type?" The wrong type of products can cause skin barrier damage. "What is the most important thing you would like to change about your skin?" Whatever the answer is, it needs to be addressed or your client will leave unhappy. This does not mean it will be fixed today, but the process can be started. Putting It All Together Looking, touching, and asking are all done at the same time. Remember to involve the client by talking about what you see as you go. Use positive terminology. For example, "Ms. Jones, you have wonderful skin tone. I can tell you are taking care of your skin. I see that you have combination skin,⎯is that what you thought? I am also noticing that you have hyperpigmentation on your cheeks and forehead. That probably comes from the sunburns you noted on your intake form. Not to worry, I will be able to clear up a lot of that." Taking photos of your clients is very important. Ask for permission first, and explain that it will help in measuring their improvement. (If you plan to use before and after photos for marketing, specifically ask for permission to use them this way, and have the client sign a release.) How you address your clients will make all the difference in making them feel comfortable with the assessment. No one likes to feel judged, so always state the positives and reinforce the message about skin health. A thorough assessment really does not take that long, and you will soon be amazed at how good you get at it⎯and what a difference it can make in building your business. Susanne Schmaling, director of education for Associated Skin Care Professionals, is a licensed esthetician, experienced educator, former spa owner, and founder of the Pacific Institute of Esthetics. Her career includes all aspects of esthetics, makeup, and nail technology, as well as spa design and consulting. Contact her at sschmaling@ascpskincare.com. Get connected to your peers @ www.skincareprofessionals.com 35