Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/1062563
48 january/february 2019 BESPOKE BEAUTY As a front-runner to combating antiaging, we're going to see more bespoke antiaging treatments and products. Bespoke beauty, meaning personalized treatments and products, is the future. For many years, custom blends and individualized products were reserved for the ultra-rich and out of reach for mainstream users. With this trend becoming more accessible, you'll have the ability to fully customize and cater to a client's needs. For years, your "blanket beauty" options have been categorized by broad skin types and conditions, leaving little room for tailored treatments. We know that adult acne and teenage acne require diff erent defenses, as do oily aging skin and dry aging skin. We also know that seasonal, environmental, and lifestyle changes can also aff ect the skin. From blending serums to individual active ingredient selection, the possibilities of integration seem genuinely endless. You can expect to see more customization options coming from your professional product lines, as well as over- the-counter consumer lines. In addition to skin care, the cosmetics market has already taken the plunge with releases of extensive shade ranges in foundations and custom-blended colors—fi nally acknowledging that fair, nude, warm, and brown are not a one-size-fi ts-all solution. How to get ready: Brush up on ingredients and cosmetic chemistry. Know the heavy hitters, the gentle soothers, and everything in between so you can customize with confi dence. SKIN CARE SCIENCE We are learning more and more about the skin and the aging process, with innovations happening every day. Harvard Medical School found a way to protect DNA from the aging process in mice in 2017, and the clinical trials continue to evolve in the race to prevent cells from getting older and damaged. The primary motivator for researchers is the damage caused by drugs used to fi ght cancer. Although the demand isn't just for vanity, the skin care industry will benefi t signifi cantly from any advances in 2019. Research continues to focus on unique DNA structures known as telomeres, which are directly linked to dictating cell longevity. Telomeres protect the information stored in DNA cells by acting as a defense mechanism in cell division. Each time the cell divides, a portion of the telomere deteriorates. When the telomere is no longer present to protect the information, degradation and disease occur. Knowing that telomeres are keystones in the aging process, Arizona State University pursued a deeper understanding and ultimately released fi ndings in 2018 that showed a way to keep telomeres going by focusing on telomerase, the enzyme associated with telomeres. The study found it is possible to bring youth to aging cells. However, it also warns it must be done with precision, as there's a "narrow line between cell rejuvenation and a heightened risk for cancer development."2 How to get ready: Read up on telomeres and download the studies so you can explain the benefi ts to your clients. As a front- runner to combating antiaging, we're going to see more bespoke antiaging treatments and products. 2 1