ASCP Skin Deep

JULY | AUGUST 2018

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34 july/august 2018 The most important step in preventing the appearance of aging skin is avoiding sun exposure, especially between the hours of 10:00 a.m.–2:00 p.m. If you are going to walk or run, apply a water- resistant sunscreen 20 minutes before you start, and try to plan those outdoor activities before 10:00 a.m. or after 2:00 p.m. Believe it or not, most of our sun damage comes from day-to-day "ambient" exposure: walking the dog, getting the mail, talking to your neighbor, and even driving. So, even in winter, it is important to wear an SPF 15 or higher broad-spectrum sunscreen product every single day! The easiest way to do this is to fi nd a sunscreen- containing moisturizer. Wear this every day and you will have the biggest aging factor covered! THE RIGHT SUNSCREEN "Broad spectrum" means the sunscreen fi lters both UVA and UVB rays. In order to claim that a sunscreen is broad spectrum, it must pass the "critical wavelength" test administered by a claims evaluation laboratory. The test measures the actual spectrum of light fi ltered by the sunscreen product. Passing this test means the product will screen both UVA and UVB rays. expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS Almost every broad- spectrum sunscreen contains several active ingredients. There are two types of sunscreen ingredients: absorbing and physical. Absorbing sunscreens are sometimes called chemical sunscreens, which is actually erroneous because physical sunscreens are also chemicals. Absorbing sunscreens work by absorbing UV rays. Physical sunscreens work by defl ecting the rays. There are only two FDA-approved physical sunscreen ingredients: zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Frequently used sunscreen ingredients and how well they work Octinoxate: 270–328 nm* (the most widely used UVB absorber) Octisalate: 300–310 nm (UVB) Zinc Oxide: 290–380 nm (UVA and UVB) Titanium Dioxide: 290–340 nm (UVA and UVB) Mexoryl (ecamsule): 320–400 nm (mostly UVA) Octocrylene: 290–360 nm (UVA and UVB) Oxybenzone (benzophenone): 270–350 nm (UVB and some UVA) Avobenzone: 310–400 nm (mostly UVA) * Ultraviolet wavelengths are measured in nanometers (nm). The waves in the UVB portion of the light spectrum are relatively short, from 290 to 320 nm. UVA waves get progressively longer, from 320 to 400 nm. Physical sunscreens are very eff ective and defl ect both UVA and UVB rays, making them good choices to use in broad-spectrum products. They are also less likely to cause irritation and allergies than the absorbing sunscreen agents. The problem with using just physical screening agents in a product is that these products tend to be pasty and thick, and not always user or makeup friendly. Absorbing sunscreen agents in general make for more elegant skin products, but they don't always do a good job with UVA. To make the most eff ective and wearable sunscreen product, more than one agent must be used, and, in this author's opinion, blending absorbing and physical sunscreen agents gives you the best broad-spectrum protection in the most user- friendly and cosmetically elegant product. No matter which type you choose, wear your sunscreen every day and encourage your clients to do the same by off ering a range of retail products. Their skin—and yours—will thank you!

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