ASCP Skin Deep


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Page 43 of 92 41 expertadvice INGREDIENTS Acid Burn The myths and realities of glycolic acid by Danné Montague-King For decades, I have dealt with glycolic acid—since the days of "Acid Reign" in the 1980s, when glycolic acid was being put into everything and touted as the grand epitome of all skin care ingredients. Endowed with the ability to moisturize skin, peel away the years like an onion, lift breasts, remove acne and hyperpigmentation, and create massive, new collagen in all human tissue (hence the breast lift), it was thought to be the safest and most effective tool in the world. Billions were made by glycolic acid purveyors all over the world, while the skin of thousands, particularly in Asia, were damaged and quite a few strange acneic cysts began popping up globally from avid users. Personally, I always found it an annoying little molecule that, when used incorrectly in a formulation, would settle as "hot spots" in the concavities of the face—which is probably why estheticians during that era would put it on for 10 minutes and rinse it off quickly.

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