ASCP Skin Deep

MAY | JUNE 2017

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www.ascpskincare.com 51 The Depression, World War II, and Post-War Era: The first major sunscreen product was brought to market in 1936 by the founder of L'Oréal. In the 1940s, a Miami physician named Benjamin Green invented the first effective sunblock, called Red Vet Pet. He designed it to protect GIs in the South Pacific during World War II. He later improved on his formula and this new jasmine-scented cream became known as Coppertone. The 1960s: In 1964, the neodymium: yttrium-aluminum- garnet (Nd:YAG) laser and carbon dioxide laser were developed at Bell Laboratories. The surgical uses of these lasers were investigated extensively from 1967–1970. Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) was first recognized as a skin- coloring agent by German scientists in the 1920s. Using DHA, Coppertone introduced QT (Quick Tan), the first consumer sunless tanning lotion introduced to the marketplace in the 1960s. The late '60s also brought the introduction of the classic three-step skin care system: cleanser, toner, and moisturizer. The 1970s: Hyaluronic acid (also known as hyaluronan) was introduced into skin care, beginning in the 1970s. Its molecule is partly composed of sugars, and it has been found to be one of the most safe and effective moisture-binding ingredients in skin care. The 1970s brought the natural look into fashion, and with it, the popularity of "natural" ingredients. These ingredients, such as aloe, milk, almonds, and honey, had been used for centuries, but began to be formulated into skin care products in the '70s. The 1980s: Retinol was a breakthrough ingredient in the 1980s. Based on the research of Albert Kligman, MD, topical tretinoin, or retinol, became a main ingredient in reducing the visible signs of aging by prescription. Compounds containing lesser degrees of retinol became available for over-the-counter use. In the early 1980s, Repêchage researched seaweed's effects on skin and launched the Four Layer Facial using layers of seaweed filtrate infused masks. Collagen extracts were also introduced as dermal fillers to help improve the appearance of wrinkles and visible signs of skin aging. For skin brightening, hydroquinone was a primary ingredient. Long-term, it was found to worsen the condition, leading to research and development of other ingredients, such as arbutin, kojic acid, and azeleic acid. The 1990s: The 1990s brought the advent of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs). AHAs are a group of keratolytic organic compounds derived from food products, including glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from sour milk), malic acid (from apples), citric acid (from citrus fruits), and tartaric acid (from grape wine). Considered antiaging miracle workers, AHAs have been shown to do everything from smooth wrinkles and clear blemishes to hydrate and lighten the skin. 1940 1960 1970 1980 1990

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