ASCP Skin Deep

MAY | JUNE 2017

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Page 35 of 76 33 THE PROCESS Here are some basic steps to performing a safe and effective microdermabrasion: 1. Cleanse the face with a product designed to remove makeup and debris, using a cleansing massage technique to relax and emulsify. 2. Use a deep-cleansing gel formulated for oily skin. This starts the degreasing process. 3. Use eye pads to protect the client's eyes from debris. 4. Blot the skin to make sure all areas are dry. 5. Adjust the settings on the microdermabrasion machine for your client's skin type and conditions. 6. Test the suction and machine's function on your hand before placing it on the client's skin. 7. Being careful not to overlap, guide the first passes on the skin using the application technique in Image A. Make sure to hold the skin taut to help you glide across the surface, and support it when breaking contact for the next pass. 8. Perform the second pass using the technique in Image B. The endpoint should be a slight erythema. If you perform a third pass, use the same technique in a diagonal pattern. 9. Remove crystals with a gel mask or creamy cleanser and warm towel. 10. Apply a soothing mask with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, chamomile, colloidal oatmeal, or licorice root. Leave on for up to 10 minutes. Remove with a cool towel. 11. Apply a serum with a blend of growth factors, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid to aid healing. A cold jade roller or other cold device can be used over the application to soothe the skin. 12. Apply a moisturizer formulated for barrier repair and a zinc-based physical SPF. WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW For microdermabrasion to be most effective, a series of treatments is often needed. Six to eight treatments with an infusion of antioxidant ingredients has been proven to provide measurable results. As always, you must understand your contraindications—when in doubt, do not do it! Be sure your client goes home with post-care directions, a copy of their consent form, and clear directions on how to contact you if there are any problems. Putting together a treatment plan with pricing is also helpful and can be added to the consent form. When performed correctly, texture improvement can be noticed after the first treatment and improvement in skin tone is apparent after the second or third microdermabrasion. Continued improvement will occur with multiple treatments performed no closer than 14 days apart within the six-to-eight-treatment plan. Note 1. B. M. Freedman, E. Rueda-Pedraza, and S. P. Waddell, "The Epidermal and Dermal Changes Associated with Microdermabrasion," Dermatologic Surgery 27, no. 12 (December 2001): 1,031–3; discussion 1,033–4. Recommended home care • pH-balanced gentle cleanser • SPF 30+, physical sunscreen • Growth factor serum • Topical antioxidant serum • Retinoid .25%–.5% • Moisturizer designed to repair barrier function

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