ASCP Skin Deep

MARCH | APRIL 2017

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www.ascpskincare.com 33 DERMAPLANING PRECAUTIONS While dermaplaning is a safe modality when performed correctly, it is important to understand the effects of this treatment. Removing the stratum corneum is not advised for every client. Many of the same cautions for microdermabrasion apply to dermaplaning. Contraindications for dermaplaning include: Laser or Intense Pulsed Light (nonablative/ ablative) therapy within the last 30 days. It is essential that the client's skin has enough time to heal before, in effect, inflicting another "injury." In this case, an enzyme peel would be a better option. Sensitive skin. Sensitive skin already has a damaged stratum corneum. A histamine reaction could occur, including swelling, hives, itching, or burning. If hair removal is the goal, a hard wax would be a safer option. It's best to help rebuild the skin's barrier first before waxing. Acne. Dermaplaning over pustules or cysts can cause the spread of bacteria and satellite breakouts. Acne is often painful and inflamed; mechanical exfoliation is sure to aggravate it further. Chemical peels are your best exfoliation choice for this type of skin. Waxing is the preferred choice for hair removal, as indicated. THE TECHNIQUE This modality is highly dependent on proper technique. There are multiple ways to perform dermaplaning, and you will find that each educational resource available teaches it a little differently. Keep an open mind and find what works for you. While dermaplaning techniques may be different, there are some key principles that should be practiced with every treatment. Wear nonlatex gloves. When you remove the skin barrier, you expose your client to bacteria, viruses, and fungus—which can easily impact the skin. Note: latex is also a known allergen; using nonlatex gloves is a best practice to avoid irritations. Pre-cleanse the skin. It is very important to perform the service on clean skin. Remove makeup, then use a gel cleanser designed for deep pore cleansing, regardless of the skin type. Fully dry the skin. Wet or damp skin can slow down the blade, which can cause irritation and nicks. The blade will glide more easily over dry skin. Apply gentle products post treatment. Regardless of the client's skin type, make sure to apply products that can help the skin quickly heal its barrier function. Active ingredients, fragrance, and other irritants can impair the barrier function's primary role of protecting the skin. Take your time. Rushing this treatment is not advised. Of course, it is essential to be cautious and alert while handling the sharp blade. Blades matter. Blades made specifically for dermaplaning are safer, as they are rounded on the ends and easier to use. COMBINING TREATMENTS Many estheticians will turn a dermaplaning treatment into a full facial by applying an enzyme peel and soothing mask after the procedure. This is effective as long as the enzyme is not blended with ingredients that could further irritate the skin. While some estheticians combine dermaplaning and chemical peels, it is best to avoid that combination unless you know how your client's skin reacts and are comfortable with your exfoliation product's performance. Always keep in mind the desired results for your client. Often, great results can be achieved safely with a few more treatments in a series, as opposed to being too aggressive and opening yourself to liability issues. SCOPE OF PRACTICE Some states do not allow estheticians to perform dermaplaning. If this is your situation, do not worry; microdermabrasion performed with an enzyme peel (and waxing) will help those clients who want hair removal and resurfacing. There are many good alternatives on the market. Electrolysis is also an option and a great modality in which to get licensed or certified. Just remember that keeping the skin healthy and intact is our job as estheticians. Doing anything that will damage the integrity of the skin can cause harm to the client if not done correctly. Our focus should always be on the client's safety first. There are multiple ways to perform dermaplaning, and you will find that each educational resource available teaches it a little differently.

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