ASCP Skin Deep

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2017

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www.ascpskincare.com 33 provide documentation that you have been trained in the safe use of that formulation. Here are some basic steps to performing a safe and effective chemical peel technique: 1. Cleanse the skin with a basic cleanser, using a cleansing massage to relax the client, as well as emulsify and remove any makeup. 2. Cleanse further with a deep cleansing gel formulated for oily skin. This starts the degreasing process. 3. Cover the eyes with eye pads to protect them from drips, spills, and fumes; if you are working close to the eye area, eye pads or tanning goggles are very helpful. 4. Use a degreasing or pre-peel prepping solution to further degrease the skin. Most product lines have formulas that work with their peels. Apply with nonwoven gauze or esthetic wipes, starting at the forehead and working to the jawline. 5. Blot the skin with a tissue or towel; make sure all areas are dry. 6. Apply the chemical peel with a cotton- tipped applicator or small fan brush designed for acid application according to the manufacturer's instructions. 7. Check in with your client to be sure they're feeling OK and keep a close eye on the skin for any signs of trauma or stress. Use a fan to reduce any discomfort. 8. Remove the peel according to the protocol. Most AHA peels are neutralized with tepid to cold water, while some can be neutralized with an alkaline solution provided by manufacturers. Other peels simply self-neutralize when they are no longer able to penetrate, such as TCAs and Jessner's. Depending on the peel, apply a soothing mask afterward to encourage healing. Leave on up to 10 minutes; remove with a cool towel. 9. Apply a serum with a blend of growth factors designed to aid healing, such as stem cell extracts and hyaluronic acid. A cold jade roller or other cold device can be used over the application to soothe the skin. 10. Apply a moisturizer formulated for post-peel skin and a physical SPF. THE FINAL TOUCH Send your client home with clear post-care directions, including explicit instructions on what to avoid, such as direct sunlight, tanning beds, sweating, and heating up the skin. Let them know if they should expect the skin to peel (and for how long!). Also include a copy of their consent form, and information on how to contact you if there are any problems. Chemical peels are the mainstay of an esthetician's practice. When performed correctly, improvement can be seen after the first peel, with continued improvement coming after multiple treatments are performed no closer than 14 days apart. The Desired Outcome Here are some categories you can refer to with some general guidelines based on your intended outcome: Intended outcome Types of peels OK for Brightening, hydrating, texture improvement AHA light/superficial peel (lactic, mandelic, glycolic less than 30 percent, formulation designed for sensitive skin no lower than 1.5 pH); enzyme peels Skin type: Dry, dehydrated, and combination skin UV response: Fitzgerald 1, 4–6 Healing response: Scars easily, heals slowly Sensitivity: Reactive skin, rosacea 1–2 (not in active symptom flare), active environmental allergies (e.g., hay fever). Mild or no prepping of skin Conditions: First-time chemical peel Acne and comedone reduction, oily skin texture improvement BHA (salicylic acid) superficial peel; formulation designed for oily, acneic skin; Jessner's peel (1–2 layers) Skin type: Oily, combination skin UV response: All Fitzgerald types (4–6 requires longer pretreatment and post-care management) Healing response: Heals easily, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is transient Sensitivity: Nonreactive skin Conditions: Comedones, acne grades 1–2, hyperkeratinized skin Fine-line reduction, pigmentation improvement, increased hydration, improved texture and tone Glycolic acid peel up to 50 percent, lactic acid, Jessner's peel up to four layers; formulations designed for sun damage, wrinkles, and poor texture; vitamin A Skin type: Dry, combination, oily skin UV response: Fitzgerald types 1–4 (5–6 requires pretreatment and a reaction test to be safe) Healing response: Heals easily, transient post-inflammatory pigmentation, no keloids Sensitivity: Nonreactive skin Conditions: Dehydrated (lactic recommended), hyperpigmentation, hyperkeratinized, fine lines, loss of elasticity

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