ASCP Skin Deep

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2017

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32 january/february 2017 expertadvice MODALITIES Cause and Effect Properly performed chemical peels can bring great results by Susanne Schmaling One of the most effective skin care modalities at our disposal is the chemical peel. Chemical peel formulations continue to improve; their increased safety and efficacy help provide consistent results when applied correctly. Here is a quick overview of how to use this modality successfully. The challenge to providing measurable results for your client is choosing the correct chemical peel for their skin type and condition(s), while achieving marked improvement in the skin. Sometimes the reality of what can be improved and what the client is focusing on are in conflict. An example of this would be a client with sensitive skin who is focused on addressing their hyperpigmentation or melasma. Do you treat the sensitivity first then work on hyperpigmentation? The client may want to see results right away, but being too aggressive without first addressing skin type and conditions can lead you down a dangerous path. Understanding how to correctly choose the right peel for each skin type is essential to becoming an expert in the application of chemical peels. ANALYZE THE SKIN The first and most important step in a chemical peel process is assessing your client. Analyzing the client's skin is critical to a successful treatment. Here are six basic issues to address: 1. Identify the client's correct skin type. 2. Identify the client's current skin conditions. Conditions could be dehydration, sun damage, lost elasticity, acneic lesions, open sores, etc. 3. Identify the client's response to UV exposure; Fitzpatrick type is the most commonly accepted classification. 4. Identify the client's healing response time. Many estheticians use the Lancer Ethnicity Scale or Roberts Skin Type Classification System. Ask the client about their recent healing response: Do they scar easily? Does the scar discolor and stay that way or does it fade in six months, a year, longer? Do they form keloid scars? 5. Identify the client's sensitivity level. Are they currently experiencing environmental allergies? Do they react to cosmetic products? Have they been diagnosed with rosacea? 6. Identify the client's concerns. What improvement(s) do they want to see? What is most important to them? PERFORM A PROPER PEEL Any time you bring in a new chemical treatment it is important you get training by the manufacturer, even if you are a veteran esthetician with many hours of practice. Each formulation is different and can have different protocols. For liability reasons, you need to

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