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www.ascpskincare.com 31 Enzyme inhibitor peptides. These peptides inhibit an enzyme process, such as the process of collagen degradation by matrix metalloproteinase (MMP). Examples of this are: • Rice protein (Colhibin) • Silk protein, sericin • Soy protein Neurotransmitter peptides. These peptides inhibit acetylcholine release, which reduces muscle contraction. It is often compared to a Botox-like effect; depending on the formulation, noticeable results may be immediate or may require consistent daily application. Examples of this peptide are: • Acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline) • Pentapeptide-3 (Vialox) • Pentapeptide-18 (Leuphasyl) • Tripeptide-3 (Syn-Ake) Carrier peptides. These peptides are designed to transport trace elements necessary for wound healing and enzymatic processes. Tripeptide-1 (glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine or GHK) is an example of this; it is an essential carrier for copper peptides (GHK-Cu) and is also known as a signal peptide. Copper peptides are recognized as one of the most effective peptides for wound healing and improved elasticity. 3 WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW Peptides can be very effective in skin care when formulated correctly; however, there are very few peptide combinations that have been thoroughly studied. Though it is difficult to get widely accepted studies that can validate every combination, some of the peptides that have compelling data showing efficacy include Ac-EEMQRR, Argireline, Matrixyl, pal-KTTKS, and the tripeptide copper-glycine-histidine-lysine (GHK-Cu). 4 The active ingredient percentage is also a confusing aspect of understanding peptides in a formulation. With peptides, a more-is-better approach is not true. Some peptides require a very small percentage to be truly effective. As with most ingredients, in order for peptides to work within the skin they must be in a formula that penetrates well, is at an effective percentage, and is used consistently at home. Professional treatments that include peptides may give a temporary smoothing or soothing effect to the skin, but the real changes happen when clients use their products daily. Notes 1. Donald L. Bissett and Mary B. Johnson, "Cosmetic Anti-Aging Ingredients," in Textbook of Aging Skin, Miranda A. Farage, Kenneth W. Miller, Howard I. Maibach, eds. (New York: Springer, 2010). 2. F. Gorouhi and H. I. Maibach, "Role of Topical Peptides in Preventing or Treating Aged Skin," International Journal of Cosmetic Science 31, no. 5 (October 2009): 327–45. 3. M. B. Finkey, Y. Appa, and S. Bhandarkar, "Copper Peptide and Skin," in Cosmeceuticals and Active Cosmetics: Drugs VS. Cosmetics, 2nd ed., Peter Eisner and Howard I. Maibach, eds. (Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 2005): 549–564. 4. Donald L. Bissett and Mary B. Johnson, "Cosmetic Anti-Aging Ingredients."