Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/716901
38 september/october 2016 to multiply. 2 Tissues influenced by EGFs will grow, but that does not mean cancer will be the result. The problem for estheticians is that we have no idea which cells may be mutating when we are working on clients. The delivery system is important. As with all active ingredients, having a delivery system that can penetrate the stratum corneum is essential for the efficacy of the product. This means the use of a stable formulation is essential for the ingredients to work. Affinity with the physiological makeup of the epidermis is an important part of the overall formulation. Growth factors from human versus plant sources. In order for growth factors to be used in cell-to-cell communication, they must come from a biocompatible source. That means a human source. You cannot put a plant cell on the surface of the skin, penetrate it, and then have the cell react as if it is a molecule produced by the body. There are EGF-like ingredients produced from genomic alteration of the barley plant, but safety standards for this method have not been produced. One type of growth factor in a formula is not enough. Growth factors work together within the skin; using only one type of growth factor topically does not respect the biology of the skin. Multiple growth factors are best for skin improvement. 3 expertadvice INGREDIENTS Growth Experience The pros and cons of epidermal growth factors by Susanne Schmaling Growth factors are often cited as the best ingredients in skin care to reverse the signs of aging and stimulate wound healing. They can be found in many professional skin care lines, so every esthetician should understand the basics of these essential cell molecules and how they can work to improve skin appearance. WHAT IS A GROWTH FACTOR? Growth factors are proteins that communicate with cells to perform specific functions, such as cellular growth and differentiation. They are part of a family of cytokines, which are responsible for interactions and communication between cells. Growth factors are versatile; they can both stimulate growth and inhibit it. Growth factors can slow cell migration, are involved in cell apoptosis (death), and promote cell survival. They can also act in a paracrine (cell-to-cell communication), autocrine (hormone signaling), and juxtacrine (direct extracellular matrix communication) manner. Healthy skin has multiple growth factors and cytokines working together to send the correct signals to cells for homeostasis within the skin. 1 CONCERNS AND CONTROVERSIES There are many concerns when it comes to using growth factors topically; some are unfounded and others merit a second look. It is important for you as an esthetician to be aware of the issues and make your choices according to your beliefs and your trust in the manufacturer. Please note that the topical use of growth factors is not regulated by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), and long- term cosmetic safety studies have not been performed. Epidermal growth factors (EGFs) can cause existing skin cancer to grow. This is a concern that requires a second look. It is fairly safe to say that EGFs do not cause cancer, but they can influence existing cancerous cells