ASCP Skin Deep

JULY | AUGUST 2016

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www.ascpskincare.com 29 CLEARING THE CLOGS Extraction treatments, as well as light salicylic peels, can help remove clogs, but the client must also care for the skin on a daily basis to achieve and maintain clearance. Clients with acne-prone and clog-prone skin must use a daily chemoexfoliant to continually slough and remove dead-cell buildup and clear clogs so air may penetrate the follicle. This kills anaerobic p. acne cells, which die when exposed to oxygen. Daily application of a leave- on alpha hydroxy (AHA-glycolic, lactic acids) and beta hydroxy (BHA-salicylic acid) gel will help achieve this goal. Benzoyl peroxide gel can be added to help to kill bacteria in skin that has both clogged pores and frequent papules or pustules. Even after the clogged pores and acne have cleared, this treatment technique must be continued as cells continue to build up. In short, the AHA/BHA or benzoyl gel helps to break up existing congestion and helps prevent future congestion. CONTROLLING OIL There is a direct correlation between the degree of excessive oiliness and severity of acne conditions. Using an oil-control, rinse- off cleanser with the appropriate amount of surfactant cleaning agent will remove excessive sebum that can also contribute to congestion. You should have several different strengths of cleanser available for varying oiliness levels. Some cleansers for acne will also contain antibacterials like benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. AVOIDING COMEDOGENIC PRODUCTS Some skin care ingredients can contribute to congestion by increasing the adhesion of the dead cells within the follicle. Known as comedogenic ingredients, these ingredients are often fats, fatty acids, fatty esters, oils, and waxes. They are used primarily in the product vehicle or spreading agent in the skin care product. Regular use of a product containing these types of fats may worsen an acne condition. This is particularly true for products that are worn for long periods of time. Moisturizers, serums, sunscreens, and even foundation and makeup products should be noncomedogenic. Lightweight, water-based skin care products that have been independently tested as noncomedogenic are an important part of any acne treatment program. COMPLYING AT HOME How well the client follows your home- care instructions can affect the success of any skin care program. Since clients will sometimes stop using products once their skin is clear, it's your job to educate them on the importance of continual and consistent daily care for long-term success. Clients need to understand that it is vital to stay on the program and use products for continued clear skin and to prevent reoccurrence of the acne. Since clients will sometimes stop using products once their skin is clear, it's your job to educate them on the importance of continual and consistent daily care for long- term success.

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