ASCP Skin Deep


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28 july/august 2016 Make it Clear Help your clients achieve long-term acne control by Mark Lees Q: I have some success when first treating my clients with acne-prone skin, but after they achieve some clearance, many of my clients seem to have a "treatment plateau"— their skin just stops staying clear. What can I do to help my clients achieve long-term acne clearance and control? A: Acne and other congested skin problems are conditions frequently seen in our treatment rooms. Acne and clogged pores (congestion) have a strong group of genetic factors that must be kept in mind when successfully treating problem skin. While acne is not completely curable, control over these genetic factors, and other outside factors such as consistent treatment by both the esthetician and the client, is vital for continued and long-term clearance. Acne-prone skin has a predisposition to retention hyperkeratosis, a genetic condition in which dead cells do not shed from the epidermis as normal skin would. This results in cell buildup on the skin and inside the follicles. This excess of dead-cell accumulation combines with excessive sebum (oil) produced by the sebaceous glands and results in follicle congestion, which blocks oxygen from entering the follicle. The follicle needs to be clear to provide aeration (emersion in oxygen) that will kill off anaerobic (propionibacterium acnes) bacteria. Excessive sebum production is also genetic. While we can use treatments and have the client use products that help with both cell buildup and oiliness, we can't change the client's genetics. Therefore, treatment must be consistently performed both in the treatment room and at home using a good product program to achieve continual clearance. expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS

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