Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/637956
www.ascpskincare.com 31 • A formulation is an important part of getting active ingredients to work within the skin. • The order of ingredients listed on the ingredient deck does not always determine the effectiveness of the product. • Ingredients fall into different categories based on their intended use, and many have multifunction results. • Safety and stability testing should be done by every manufacturer prior to sale. • Understanding how active ingredients, such as peptides and stem cells, work requires an understanding of how the ingredients are stabilized and what the delivery method is. What You Need to Know whether the product has an effective percentage of active ingredients. Just because the active ingredient may be listed at the bottom of an ingredient deck, it does not mean the formulation is ineffective. Functional Ingredients Ingredients that stabilize the formulation and combine various elements are functional ingredients. These include: • Emulsifiers are essential to stabilize the formulation to combine oil and water. Common formulas are oil in water, water in oil, and water in silicone. • Fragrances improve the scent of the product. Synthetic fragrance has been noted to cause sensitivity and dermatitis. Natural fragrance can be essential oils, which can also be used as performance ingredients. • Multifunction ingredients, like cetyl alcohol, glycol stearate, and sorbitol, help stabilize the formula, as well as help the delivery systems get active ingredients into the skin. • Preservatives inhibit microorganisms and fungus growth, and bind metal ions to stop their reactivity (chelate). This is important for product stability, infection control, and shelf life. • Solvents are clear inert liquids used to evenly distribute ingredients and reduce viscosity. This ingredient is often listed first on most ingredient decks. Examples include water and specially denatured (SD) alcohol. • Surfactant reduces the surface tension of fluids and is often used in cleansers. It acts as an emulsifier in creams and lotions. • Thickeners, like seaweed and paraffin, stabilize suspensions, increase viscosity, and create an appealing texture. Skin Conditioning Ingredients Ingredients used to improve the stratum corneum by using emollient and humectant properties are skin conditioning ingredients. Examples are hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil, and allantoin. SAFETY AND STABILITY Another important part of a formulation is the safety and stability of the product. To get more information, be sure to ask your manufacturer what kind of testing has been done on their products and take a look at the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) website for an outline on what to watch out for. 1 This is an essential part of choosing a product line; a client's negative product reaction is a fast way to hurt your reputation—and your bottom line. Note: products manufactured in Europe undergo a stringent safety program that exceeds the current FDA requirements. Now that you understand the basics of a formulation and what to look for in a product, our future examination of active ingredients will make more sense, since the formula itself may make delivery of the actives ineffective. Stay tuned! Note 1. US Food and Drug Administration, "Product Testing," accessed February 2016, www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/ ScienceResearch/ProductTesting/default.htm. Resources Baumann, L. Cosmetic Dermatology: Principles and Practice. 2nd ed. New York: McGraw Hill Medical, 2009. Schmaling, S. Milady's Aesthetician Series: Aging Skin. New York: Cengage Learning, 2012.