Issue link: https://www.ascpskindeepdigital.com/i/618738
www.ascpskincare.com 31 Encapsulation Encapsulation is the delivery form most estheticians are aware of. This category of delivery system is also commonly referred to as an ingredient carrier. You will recognize these carriers under some common names such as liposomes, microsponges, nanosomes, and nanospheres. Generally, the inner part of the capsulation contains the active ingredients, while the outer portion either maintains stability and adheres to the skin surface or dissolves to release the active ingredients. The most popular systems use ingredients that mimic the skin's lipids for best absorption within the skin. Liposomes are an example of this. HOW DO THEY WORK? Understanding skin physiology and structure is essential; when you can identify the makeup of the skin's acid mantle and lipid bilayers, you will see how an encapsulated delivery system begins to work within the epidermis. Let's take a look at how one of the most widely used delivery systems, liposomes, work within the skin. 1. After the product is applied to the skin, the outer shell of the encapsulated carrier binds to the stratum corneum. 2. The carrier begins to dissolve through the lipid bilayers; phospholipids are a main component of liposomes and are accepted by the skin's bilayers, while the water portion of the formulation is delivered past the stratum corneum. 3. The active ingredients are released as the delivery system melts into the epidermis. These actives then can perform based on what they are and how they are designed to react on the skin. A delivery system that encapsulates an active ingredient inside a phospholipid shell. An encapsulated delivery system that time-releases active ingredients. These refer to the microscopic size of the delivery system. These systems use the same type of technology as a liposome. Liposome: Microsponge: Nanosomes and Nanospheres: Glossary » The effectiveness of these delivery systems is based on the health of the skin barrier, concentration of the active ingredients, temperature of the skin, and overall composition of the formulation, including pH. It is also important to note that many of the benefits manufacturers cite about their active ingredients are dependent on reaching a live cell. This may or may not be possible, depending on the overall formulation. Since many of the delivery systems used in cosmetics also have a role in drug delivery, cosmetic chemists must be careful to formulate a cosmetic that can not be classified by the FDA as a drug. This can be an issue if the marketing claims a product can affect the structure and function of the skin. The term cosmeceutical is an example of an attempt to bridge the gap between cosmetics and drugs, but it is not a term that is recognized by the FDA. These cosmeceuticals are examples of advanced delivery systems. WHAT DO YOU NEED TO KNOW? • Delivery of active ingredients can be achieved by the overall formulation or encapsulated carriers such as liposomes. • Manufacturer claims must be cosmetic in nature to avoid being classified as a drug by the FDA. • Understanding skin structure and function is essential to understanding how formulas work. • It's not just the ingredient that makes the difference in whether or not a product is effective—it's the overall formula, delivery system, and how the product is used.