ASCP Skin Deep

JANUARY | FEBRUARY 2016

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28 january/february 2016 expertadvice SKIN SOLUTIONS two weeks. Follicles on this age group tend to be very tight, and performing a facial on an untreated face may be uncomfortable for the client and may not show great results. After using the home-care program for two weeks, comedones should be much easier to extract. Add a soothing ice-cold beauty globe treatment after the extractions to minimize inflammation and redness. Q: How often should a young client have facial treatments? A: Ideally every two weeks until the client is clear, and then monthly thereafter. Blue light LED and alpha hydroxy or light (low-percentage) salicylic peels are also helpful in speeding clearing. Q: What are the common problems an esthetician may encounter when treating teenage acne-prone skin? A: The biggest problem is compliance— making sure that home care is being performed. Some teenagers may be less mature, and they tend to be less compliant with home care. The tone in which you instruct these clients can make a difference in how they cooperate. They need basic instructions, but talk to them as you would an adult. Teenagers like to think of themselves as adults, and treating them with respect can make a difference in treatment success. Besides noncompliance, another problem can be overzealous treatment by the teenager. Counteract the "more is better" mantra by explaining that overuse of the product (too much product or using more often than instructed) will not speed clearing; in fact, it may cause redness, peeling, and discomfort. Explain that if the skin is stripped of all the oil, it will react by producing more oil—which will make acne conditions worse. Educating the client about how acne forms is vital for successful treatment. Make sure the young client understands that the condition is genetic, and having clear skin does not mean she's cured. Emphasize that failure to continue home care will result in reoccurrence of the problem. Makeup may or may not be part of a 15-year-old's world, but if it is, that makeup needs to be carefully selected to avoid comedogenic ingredients that can clog the follicles from the outside and complicate the whole plan. Working with adolescents can be frustrating, but having the ability to help this age group feel better about themselves and, as a result, build confidence and self- esteem, can be endlessly fulfilling. So, take your time and remember what it was like to be a teen, and you will be well on your way to creating a happy, lifelong client.

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